UC-NRLF 


3DT    DS1 


8* 


,ib.     REESE    ifRARY 

Igiic.    i/&pt  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Received  . 
Accessions  No^O /-r'    Shelf 


e» 


PRACTICAL  AZALEA  CULTURE. 


A  TREATISE 


ON 


THE  PROPAGATION  AND  CULTIVATION 


OF  THE 


AZALEA   INDICA 


BY 


ROBERT    J.     HALLIDAY, 
•  i 

FLORIST,      BALTIMORE,     MD. 


ILLUSTRATED. 

^ SV"™ 
UNIVERSITY 


BALTIMORE,     MARYLAND 
1880. 


I  O 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  1880,  by 

ROBERT  J.  HALLIDAY, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


BAKRR  &  GODWIN,  PRINTERS, 
25  Park  Row,  N.  Y. 


PREFACE. 


Since  the  publication  of  Practical  Camellia  Culture,  and 
the  flattering  reception  of  the  work,  I  have  been  induced  to 
give  my  practical  experience  on  the  cultivation  of  the  Aza- 
lea. 

In  presenting  this  treatise  on  the  propagation  and  culture 
of  this  plant,  of  which  I  claim  to  be  a  successful  grower,  it 
has  been  my  endeavor  to  present  the  subject  in  as  practical 
a  form  as  possible.  The  work  is  complete  in  itself,  and  is 
confined  exclusively  to  the  Azalea.  The  treatment  which 
is  embodied  within  its  pages,  so  far  as  my  knowledge  and 
practical  experience  extends,  is  the  result  of  many  years  of 
labor,  and  I  believe  to  be  the  best  method  of  culture. 

This  work  is  intended  for  the  inexperienced  florist,  for 
the  amateur,  and  for  those  who  wish  to  receive  some 
practical  hints  which  may  lead  them  to  be  successful  growers. 
It  gives  in  detail  directions  how  to  grow  this  plant  from  a 
cutting  in  its  different  stages,  to  a  plant  thirty  years  old. 

I  have  not  omitted  or  concealed  intentionally  any  knowl- 
edge on  this  subject.  All  that  has  been  given  is  the  result 
of  careful  observation  and  experience  of  over  twenty 
years.  I  have  endeavored  to  give  all  the  directions  in  plain 
terms. 

Should  this  work  contain  some  information  that  will  be 

3 


4  PREFACE. 

valuable  to  those  for  whom  it  has  been  prepared,  or  for 
those  of  its  friends  who  think  it  will  do  good,  and  save 
many  disappointments,  which  is  the  lot,  more  or  less,  of  all 
growers  of  this  plant,  then  will  my  object  be  accomplished. 

ROBERT  J.  HALLIDAY. 

BALTIMORE  CITY,  Md.,  Oct.,  1880. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGE 

Five  different  modes  of  increasing  the  Azalea. — Arti- 
ficial heat  not  necessary. — What  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  cuttings  from  wilting. — The  cause  of 
failure  to  root  the  cutting. — Proper  temperature. 
— Time  to  take  Azalea  cuttings. — Young  and  old 
wood  propagation. — Suitable  wood  for  cuttings . .  17 

CHAPTER  II. 

Sand  for  propagating  purposes. — Boxes  to  receive 
cuttings. — Length  of  cuttings. — Engraving  of  cut- 
ting most  suitable  to  use. — Engraving  of  cutting 
ready  to  be  put  in  the  sand. — My  mode  of  prevent- 
ing cuttings  from  wilting  before  being  placed  in 
the  frame 21 

CHAPTER  III. 

How  to  place  cuttings  in  sand  boxes. — Engraving  of 
box  filled  with  cuttings. — Engraving  showing  my 
frame  which  will  accommodate  twelve  boxes  of 
cuttings. — How  to  care  for  cuttings  after  being 
placed  in  the  frame. — When  and  how  to  syringe 
the  cuttings. — Three  important  matters  in  rooting 

Azalea  cuttings 24 

5 


6  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

PAGE 

Time  required  to  root  the  cuttings. — Engraving  show- 
ing a  rooted  cutting. — Soil  is  necessary  for  cuttings 
as  soon  as  they  are  rooted. — How  to  have  bushy  or 
standard  plants.  —  Engraving  of  plant  eight  weeks 
old.  —  Proper  place  for  cuttings  after  being 
potted 29 

CHAPTER  V. 

When  to  remove  the  cuttings  to  the  greenhouse. — 
Engraving  of  Azalea  cutting  six  months  old. — 
When  to  re-pot  these  plants. — Engraving  of  one 
year  old  plant. — When  to  remove  from  green- 
house.— Engraving  of  one  year  old  plant  with  tops 
taken  out. — Engraving  of  plant  eighteen  months 
old. — Engraving  of  plant  two  years  old. — Number 
of  cuttings  to  be  had  from  this  age  plant. — En- 
graving of  plant  two  and  a  half  years  old. — 
Engraving  of  plant  four  years  old. — Engraving  of 
plant  five  years  old. — Engraving  of  plant  five 
years  old,  trimmed  up 33 

CHAPTER  VI. 

On  grafting  the  Azalea. — The  process  I  prefer. — The 

best  stock  to  use 41 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Engraving  of  cutting  of  Indica  Alba  to  be  used  as  a 

stock. — Engraving  of  Indica  Alba  rooted 41 


CONTENTS.  7 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

PAGE 

Best  time  to  graft  the  Azalea. — Suitable  wood  for 
grafting. — Engraving  of  box  to  receive  the  grafts. 
— Engraving  of  my  frame  of  grafted  plants 4G 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Engraving  showing  stock  suitable  for  grafting. — How 
to  graft. — Engraving  showing  how  to  insert  the 
graft. — Engraving  showing  plant  grafted. — Direc- 
tions for  grafting 51 

CHAPTER  X. 

Engraving  of  plant  six  weeks  after  being  grafted. — 
Engraving  of  the  grafted  plant  with  the  top  nipped 
out. — Time  to  re-pot  young  grafted  plants. — 
Three  engravings  of  plants,  two,  three,  and  four 

years  from  graft 54 

«'  • 

CHAPTER  XI. 

General  treatment  and  culture  required  for  the  Azalea 
when  eight  years  and  older. — Engraving  of  a  well 
grown  plant,  eight  feet  in  diameter 58 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Forcing  Azaleas. — How  to  treat  them 62 


8  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

PAGE 

Showing  the  best  way  for  the  amateur  florist  to  root 
the  cuttings. — Engraving  of  a  box  of  cuttings  for 
the  amateur  florist  or  those  who  wish  to  propagate 
in  limited  quantities 64 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Grafting  Azaleas  for  amateur  culture,  etc. — Engraving 

of  bell  glass  for  amateurs 66 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Inarching    the    Azalea. — Time    for    performing    this 

work 69 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Azaleas  from  seed. — General  treatment  for  the  seed- 
ling plants 70 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
Azalea  sports. — Why  they  should  not  be  encouraged. .     72 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Azaleas  for  the  amateurs  or  those  who  have  a  small 

collection. — Treatment  for  the  same 75 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Azaleas  for  window  culture. — The  proper  treatment  re- 
quired.— Engraving  of  an  elastic  sprinkler. — En- 
graving of  coal  oil  stove  for  small  conservatory..  78 


CONTENTS.  9 

CHAPTER  XX. 

PAGE 

Soil  best  adapted  for  the  growth  of  the  Azalea 81 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Liquid  manure,  lime  water,  etc.,  for  the  Azalea 83 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Sand  for  rooting  cuttings 85 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Drainage  for  large  pots 87 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

On  insects  that  infest  Azaleas. — Red   spider,  mealy 

bug,  etc. — Engraving  of  floral  atomizer 89 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
House  suitable  for  Azalea  culture. . 91 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Two   greenhouse   Azaleas    which  have  proved   to  be 

hardy 93 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Thirty  named  Azaleas  of  best  and  distinct  kinds ....      95 
1* 


10  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

PAGE 

On  Azaleas  planted  in  the  open  ground  during  the 

summer  months 97 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Packing  Azalea  plants  for  shipment. — Treatment  best 

for  them  after  they  are  received 98 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
Calendar  for  the  months 100 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 
Azalea  catalogue 105 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

FIG.    1 . — Representing  cutting  two  and  a  half  inches 

long 22 

FIG.    2. — Cutting  ready  for  sand  box 23 

FIG.    3.— Box  of  cuttings 25 

FIG.    4. — Frame   containing    thirty-six  hundred   cut- 
tings    2? 

FIG.    5.— Cutting  well  rooted 29 

FIG.    6. — Engraving  of  plant  eight  weeks  old  in  a  pot.  30 

FIG.    7.— Engraving  of  plant  six  months  old 32 

FIG.    8. — Engraving  of  one  year  old  plant 33 

FIG.    9. — One  year  old  plant  re-potted  and  topped. . .  34 

FIG.  10. — Engraving  eighteen  months  old  plant 35 

FIG.  11. — Engraving  two  years  old  plant 36 

FIG.  12. — Engraving  two  years  and  a  half  old  plant. .  37 

FIG.  13. — Engraving  of  four  year  old  plant 38 

11 


]  2  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

FIG.  14. — Engraving  of  a  five  year  old  plant 39 

FIG.  15. — Engraving  of  a  five  year  old  plant,  trimmed 

up 40 

FIG.  16. — Cutting  three  inches  long 44 

FIO.  17. — Cutting  of  Indica  Alba  rooted 45 

FIG.  18. — Box  for  grafting 47 

FIG.  19. — Frame  for  grafted  plants,  with  a  double 

covering 49 

FIG.  20. — Stock  one  year  old 51 

FIG.  21.— How  to  insert  the  graft 52 

FIG.  22. — Graft  inserted  and  tied 53 

FIG.  23.— Graft  firmly  united 54 

FIG.  24. — Grafted  plant  topped 55 

FIG.  25. — Plant  two  years  from  graft 56 

FIG.  26.— Plant  three  years  from  graft 56 

FIG.  27. — Plant  four  years  from  graft 57 

FIG.  28. — Indica  Alba,  from  a  cutting.     A  well  grown 

plant,  four  feet  in  diameter 60 

FIG.  29.— Box  for  cuttings 64 

FIG.  30. — Bell  glass  with  grafted  plants 67 

FIG.  31.— Elastic  Sprinkler 79 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Fio.  32. — Coal  Oil  Stove 

FIG.  33. — Floral  Atomizer 

FIG.  34. — House  suitable  for  Azaleas. 


13 

PAGE 
80 

90 
91 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  Azalea  belongs  to  the  natural  order  of  Ericeae, 
and  to  the  sub-order  of  Rhodorea,  named  in  allusion  to  the 
dry  places  in  which  many  of  the  species  are  found,  or  to  the 
brittle  nature  of  its  wood. 

Azalea  Indica,  the  well  known  greenhouse  shrub,  appears 
on  record  as  the  first  specie  introduced  into  Europe  from 
India  and  China  in  1808. 

Since  that  time  many  new  and  distinct  varieties  have 
been  added,  of  various  colors  and  markings. 

Most  of  our  best  kinds,  with  but  few  exceptions  since 
their  introduction  from  India  and  China,  have  been  pro- 
duced by  fertilizing,  which  work  has  been  performed  by 
eminent  florists  of  both  Europe  and  this  country. 

BALTIMORE,  Oct.,  1880. 


15 


AZALEA  CULTURE, 


CHAPTER  I. 

PROPAGATION    OP    THE    AZALEA. :FIVE    DIFFERENT    MODES    OF 

INCREASING    THE    AZALEA. ARTIFICIAL    HEAT    NOT    NEC- 
ESSARY.  WHAT    IS    NECESSARY    TO    KEEP    THE    CUTTINGS 

FROM    WILTING. THE    CAUSE    OF    FAILURE    TO    ROOT    THE 

CUTTINGS. PROPER   TEMPERATURE. TIME  TO  TAKE    AZA- 
LEA   CUTTINGS. YOUNG    AND    OLD    WOOD     PROPAGATION. 

SUITABLE    WOOD    FOR    CUTTINGS. 

AZALEAS  are  increased  by  the  following  methods :  1st, 
from  cuttings  of  half  hardened  wood;  2d,  by  inarching; 
3d,  by  grafting;  4th,  from  seed;  5th,  from  sports.  The 
cuttings  are  easily  managed,  all  the  varieties  rooting  in 
from  four  to  six  weeks. 

Grafting  the  Azalea  will  be  found  a  quick  method  of 
getting  a  supply  of  any  new  variety  in  a  short  time. 

Inarching  the  Azalea  is  seldom  practiced  by  growers  of 
late  years,  although  it  can  be  done  very  successfully  during 
the  months  of  July  and  August.  Azaleas,  although  easily 
grown  from  seed,  are  not  profitable. 

New  Azaleas  are  also  produced  from  sports  of  estab- 
lished kinds.  This  way  of  obtaining  new  varieties  I  con- 

17 


18  AZALEA  CULTURE. 

sider  a  bad  freak  in  our  greenhouse  kinds  of  this  plant. 
See  Chapter  XVII  on  this  special  subject. 

My  mode  of  rooting  this  plant  differs  entirely  from  that 
of  the  Camellia.  Instead  of  a  bench,  use  shallow  boxes 
filled  with  good  sharp  sand  to  receive  the  cuttings  which 
are  to  be  rooted.  There  is  no  artificial  heat  necessary  for 
them. 

Give  Azalea  cuttings  the  coolest  part  of  the  house.  It 
is  not  necessary  that  they  should  have  bottom  heat ;  they 
will  root  more  freely  without  it.  A  frame  will  be  required 
with  a  glass  covering,  inside  of  the  house.  This  extra  cov- 
ering is  only  needed  for  a  week  or  ten  days.  I  place  the 
boxes  which  are  filled  with  the  cuttings  in  this  frame,  not 
that  they  be  kept  close  or  air-tight,  but  merely  to  keep  them 
from  flagging  or  wilting  for  the  first  week  or  two. 

If  you  wish  to  be  successful  in  rooting  them,  keep  all 
artificial  heat  away  ;  never  use  either  top  or  bottom  heat. 

Artificial  heat  has  a  tendency  to  produce  numerous 
insects,  therefore  keep  it  away  from  these  cuttings.  Red 
spider  and  thrip  are  the  principal  causes  of  failure  in  a 
great  many  instances. 

More  Azaleas  die  from  these  pests  than  from  any  other 
cause  known. 

At  the  season  of  the  year  when  the  cuttings  are  placed 
in  the  sand  boxes,  the  days  are  growing  longer  and  the  sun 
is  becoming  more  powerful,  which  will  give  all  the  heat  that 
is  necessary  during  the  day. 

At  night,  should  the  thermometer  fall  to  forty  degrees, 
they  will  not  be  injured,  but  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  the 
low  temperature. 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  19 

During  the  day  the  house  should  be  kept  at  a  temper- 
ature not  over  sixty  to  sixty -five  degrees. 

I  generally  take  Azalea  cuttings  from  the  first  to  the 
middle  of  April. 

The  young  wood  must  be  your  guide,  for  instance, 
Azalea  plants  which  were  placed  in  the  forcing  house  during 
November  will  flower  and  grow  during  the  first  part  of 
January,  therefore  this  wood  will  be  suitable  for  cuttings 
during  February.  Those  which  have  not  had  the  extra  heat 
will  probably  flower  and  begin  growing  during  the  month 
of  March. 

Plants  from  which  I  take  the  cuttings,  begin  making 
their  young  growth  about  the  first  of  March.  When  this 
young  wood  is  from  four  to  six  weeks  old  it  is  suitable  for 
cuttings,  and  is  what  may  be  termed  half  hardened  wood. 

Cuttings  can  be  grown  from  the  old  wood  in  tho  fall, 
but  not  with  the  same  success  as  those  of  the  young  wood 
in  the  spring. 

In  cutting  the  wood  from  the  plants  in  the  fall  much  of 
the  bloom  is  lost^as  the  shoots  used  for  cuttings  at  this  time 
is  the  blooming  wood. 

My  plan  and  that  which  I  practice  is  spring  propagation, 
and  from  the  half  hardened  wood. 

The  growth  of  the  young  wood  on  the  parent  plants, 
when  it  is  half  hardened  or  suitable  for  cuttings,  will  be 
generally  about  three  and  a  half  inches  long.  Take  about 
two  and  a  half  inches  of  this  wood  for  the  cuttings,  and 
only  the  top  shoots,  leaving  about  one  inch  of  the  young 
growth  on  the  parent  plant,  which  will  form  new  shoots  and 
produce  flower  buds  for  the  coming  season. 


20 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


In  taking  cuttings  from  the  stock  plants  do  not  follow 
the  incorrect  practice  of  pulling  the  branch,  which  is  intended 
for  the  cuttings,  from  the  socket  of  the  old  wood,  but  use  a 
knife  for  cutting  the  branches,  allowing  one  inch  of  the 
young  growth  to  remain.  With  such  treatment  as  this  the 
plants  will  be  shapely.  A  clean  cut  is  more  easily  healed 
than  a  ragged  or  torn  one,  both  in  plants  and  human  beings. 


CHAPTER  II. 

SAND      FOR      PROPAGATING      PURPOSES. BOXES      TO      RECEIVE 

CUTTINGS. LENGTH    OF    CUTTINGS. ENGRAVING    OF    CUT- 
TING    MOST    SUITABLE    TO    USE. ENGRAVING    OF    CUTTING 

READY     TO     BE     PLACED     IN     THE      SAND. MY     MODE      OF 

PREVENTING     CUTTINGS    FROM     WILTING     BEFORE      BEING 
PLACED  IN  THE    SAND. 

For  the  cuttings  use  boxes  made  of  one  inch  boards  that 
have  not  been  used  for  any  other  purpose.  I  have  often 
noticed  growers  using,  for  propagating  purposes,  soap,  starch 
or  candle  boxes.  All  such  are  not  fit,  they  will  cause 
disease  in  the  cutting  bed. 

Much  depends  upon  cleanliness  in  rooting  these  cuttings. 
More  Azalea  cuttings  die  from  being  infected  with  insects 
than  from  any  other  cause. 

I  use  boxes  which  a  man  can  handle  without  inconven- 
ience, 24  inches  long  by  18  inches  wide  and  three  inches 
deep.  There  should  be  a  hole  in  each  corner  of  about  one 
inch  in  diameter,  to  allow  the  water  to  pass  off.  As  there  is 
more  water  used  for  the  Azalea  cuttings  than  for  any  other  of 
the  hard  wood  class  of  plants,  a  half  an  inch  of  drainage  is 
absolutely  necessary  for  their  success.  You  will  find  this 
explained  more  fully  in  following  chapters. 

Fill  the  boxes  with  sand,  with  the  exception  of  the  half 
an  inch  at  the  bottom  which  has  been  left  for  drainage. 
Beat  the  sand  with  a  brick  or  something  weighty.  It  is 
impossible  to  have  it  too  solid.  Water  the  sand  with  a  fine 

21 


22  AZALEA  CULTURE. 

rose,  then  boat  the  second  time,  not  being  afraid  of  having 

the  sand  in  the  boxes  too  firm. 

Fig.  No.  1  represents  a  cutting  about  two  inches  and  a 

half  long,  taken  from  the  parent  plant.  They  can  be  used 
shorter,  but  I  have  never  been  very  successful  with 
small  cuttings.  Most  growers  use  the  small 
cuttings,  and  their  success  in  rooting  them  is  very 
limited.  To  be  what  I  call  a  successful  grower  of 
Azalea  cuttings  is  to  root  and  bring  from  the  sand 
box  ninety-five  cuttings  out  of  every  hundred. 
Many  may  think  this  impossible,  as  so  many  unsuc- 
Repre-  cessful  growers  are  only  able  to  get  five  living  cut- 

sentmg   tings  out  of  one  hundred.    But  it  is  done,  and  can  be 
cuttin^ 


a  shown  during  the  months  of  April  and  May.     If 
halfinches 


cutting 
two  and 

long,  the  directions  are  followed  which  are  contained  in 
this  work,  there  will  hardly  be  a  dead  cutting  in  a  box  which 
will  hold  over  three  hundred. 

A  very  important  matter  to  be  looked  after  in  rooting 
this  cutting,  is  to  see  that  the  sand  is  fresh  from  the 
river  or  bank.  It  is  not  necessary  to  wash  it,  as  so  many 
recommend,  but  do  not  use  sand  that  has  grown  other 
cuttings.  Sand  which  has  'been  used  for  some  time  for 
propagating  purposes,  becomes  full  of  vermin,  &c.  After 
it  has  been  in  the  house  six  months  or  even  less  time,  if 
noticed  carefully,  there  will  be  often  found  a  kind  of  fungus 
over  the  sand  and  among  the  cuttings.  Many  cuttings  die 
from  this  cause,  few  growers  knowing  the  reason.  Fresh 
sand  and  cleanliness  are  absolutely  necessary  for  the  success- 
ful propagation  of  the  Azalea,  as  well  as  other  cuttings. 
Figure  2  represents  the  cutting  made  and  ready  for  the 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


23 


Fig.   2. 


sand  box.  You  will  notice  that  four  or  five  of  the  lower 
leaves  have  been  removed  from  the  lower 
portion  of  the  cutting.  This  portion  is 
inserted  in  the  sand  up  to  where  the  line  is 
drawn. 

The  leaves  which  are  left  are  cut  off,  as 
shown   in    the  engraving.      Taking   half  the 
leaf  off  is  a  great  advantage  to  the  cuttings, 
Cuttin     ready  an(^  should  not  be  neglected.     The  cuttings 
for  sand  box.   are  generally  soft  and  young,  and  are  very 
apt  to  wilt  or  flag.     If  wilted  so  young  it  is  with  great 
difficulty  that  they  recover. 

In  taking  cuttings  from  the  stock  plants  let  the  wood  be 
of  the  strongest  and  most  robust  kind.  All  sickly  and  weak 
shoots  reject.  See  that  they  are  free  from  all  insects.  Do 
not  allow  the  cuttings  to  flag  or  wilt  before  they  are  placed 
in  the  sand  (great  care  is  required  here).  I  usually  take 
the  cuttings,  in  whatever  number  I  wish  to  grow,  place 
them  in  a  damp  cloth  with  each  variety  labelled,  and  after 
having  six  or  eight  varieties  so  cut,  take  them  to  the  propa- 
gating house  and  insert  them  in  the  sand.  The  damp  cloth 
will  keep  the  cuttings  from  flagging  until  they  are  placed 
in  the  sand. 


CHAPTER  III. 

HOW    TO    PLACE    CUTTINGS     IN     BAND     BOXES. ENGRAVING    OF 

BOX    FILLED    WITH    CUTTINGS. — ENGRAVING     SHOWING    MY 
FRAME    WHICH    WILL    ACCOMMODATE     TWELVE     BOXES     OF 

CUTTINGS. HOW    TO     CARE    FOR    CUTTINGS     AFTER    BEING 

PLACED    IN    THE    FRAME. WHEN    AND    HOW    TO    SYRINGE 

THE    CUTTINGS. THREE  IMPORTANT    MATTERS  IN    ROOTING 

AZALEA    CUTTINGS. 

The  cuttings  are  now  ready  for  the  sand  boxes  which 
have  been  prepared.  If  the  sand  has  been  placed  in  boxes 
according  to  the  directions  already  given  as  regards  solidity, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  draw  straight  lines  and  make  open- 
ings in  the  sand  to  receive  the  cuttings.  To  draw  straight 
lines  use  a  carpenter's  square  or  some  straight  edge.  To 
make  the  openings  in  the  sand  use  a  knife,  place  the  cuttings 
in  the  openings  in  a  straight  line  one  inch  deep,  then  press 
the  sand  firmly  around  each  cutting.  At  the  end  of  each 
variety  place  a  label  with  its  name,  and  so  on  until  the  box 
is  filled.  By  following  this  plan  it  will  not  be  necessary  to 
use  a  stick  between  the  varieties,  which  is  often  done. 

Cuttings  thus  arranged  have  a  very  systematical 
appearance.  It  is  a  very  pleasing  sight  to  see  the  young 
cuttings  in  the  boxes,  in  process  of  rooting,  when  it  is  done 
with  neatness  and  in  a  practical  way.  When  done  in  this 
manner  they  can  be  removed  when  rooted  without  mixing 
the  different  kinds. 

When  the  box  is  filled  with  cuttings  it  should  have  the 

24 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  25 

appearance  of  figure  3,  which  represents  a  box  containing 
three  hundred  cuttings  of  sixteen  different  varieties,  as  will 
bo  noticed  by  the  labels.  The  box  being  now  filled  with 

cuttings,  a 
frame  cover- 
ed with  glass 
is  required 
inside  of  the 
greenhouse. 

This  frame 
is  not  intend- 
ed, as  many 
would  sup- 
Fig.  3.  Box  of  Cuttings.  pose,  to  keep 
them  close  or  partly  air-tight,  but  merely  to  keep  the 
young  cuttings  from  flagging  or  wilting,  or,  in  other  words, 
to  keep  the  leaves  and  cuttings  erect.  If  they  are  allowed 
to  flag  during  the  first  few  days,  the  chances  of  success  are 
poor.  At  no  time  must  the  sash  be  kept  close  down  on 
the  frame.  The  first  day  that  the  boxes  with  the  cuttings 
are  put  in  the  frame,  keep  the  sash  raised  about  half  an 
inch  or  more.  If  kept  too  close  they  scald  and  the  foliage 
turns  black.  The  cuttings  will  never  recover.  In  propa- 
gating always  bear  in  mind  that  the  cuttings  at  this  time 
are  without  roots,  and  have  nothing  to  support  or  nourish 
the  young  shoots.  The  sand  which  is  intended  to  heal  the 
the  wound  causes  a  callous,  and  from  this  the  roots  will 
form,  but  not  without  the  instructions  already  given. 
Watch  the  cuttings  closely  at  this  time  and  success  will 
surely  crown  your  efforts. 
2 


26  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

At  night  throw  up  the  sash  which  covers  the  fraino  in 
order  to  give  the  cuttings  all  the  air  that  is  circulating 
through  the  house. 

Figure  4  represents  a  frame  which  contains  twelve 
boxes  of  cuttings.  Each  box  holds  three  hundred,  making 
in  all  thirty-six  hundred  cuttings,  which  is  about  the  number 
I  grow  every  season.  I  grow  many  Azalea  cuttings  without 
the  frame,  but  not  with  the  same  success.  Therefore  I 
advise  using  the  frame.  The  second  day  cover  the  frame 
with  the  sash,  as  was  done  on  the  first  day,  the  sash  being 
raised  about  one  inch.  At  night  throw  the  sash  up.  Ven- 
tilate in  this  way  until  the  end  of  the  second  week,  then 
remove  the  sash  from  the  frame  entirely.  The  cuttings 
should  now  be  erect,  and  the  wood  hardened  and  capable 
of  standing  the  air  which  is  circulating  through  the  house. 
Should  they  flag  or  wilt  during  the  first  week  keep  them 
covered  more  closely.  The  idea  is  to  keep  them  erect 
the  first  week  or  two,  which  can  be  done  by  the 
proper  regulation  of  the  frame.  Have  the  glass  shaded 
with  whiting.  A  very  important  matter  to  be  considered 
is  the  syringing,  which  keeps  down  red  spider,  thrip,  &c. 
If  these  pests  get  among  the  Azalea  cuttings  they  will 
become  worthless  and  only  fit  for  the  rubbish  heap.  Old 
plants  can  be  cleared  of  red  spider,  but  I  find  it  impossible 
to  rid  this  pest  from  the  cutting  boxes  when  it  gets  fairly 
started. 

To  prevent  these  insects  from  making  their  appearance, 
syringe  with  clean  water  morning  and  night,  also  wet  the 
sash  and  boards.  Keep  a  good  moisture  in  the  house  at  all 
times.  Red  spider  cannot  exist  in  a  moist  atmosphere. 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


28  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

Syringing  will  be  necessary  twice  a  day  until  the  cuttings 
are  rooted,  which  will  be  in  six  weeks.  Water  the  sand 
about  twice  a  week,  or  offcener  if  required.  Watch  the 
sand  and  do  not  allow  it  to  become  dry. 

Important  matters  to  be  observed  in  rooting  Azalea 
cuttings  : 

Have   new  boxes  filled  with  clean  and  fresh  sand. 

Do  not  allow  the  cuttings  to  flag  or  wilt  for  the  first 
week.  To  avoid  this  do  not  keep  them  too  close.  This 
will  cause  them  to  scald,  damp  and  turn  black.  Watch 
the  cuttings  several  times  during  the  day  and  you  will  see 
what  they  require. 

Keep  the  strong  rays  of  the  sun  from  them  between  the 
hours  of  ten  and  four  o'clock  for  the  first  two  weeks,  then 
gradually  give  more  light. 

The  most  important  is  the  syringing.  If  neglected  the 
cuttings  will  become  covered  with  red  spider,  thrip,  &c. 
Many  persons  fail  to  root  the  cuttings  on  account  of  neglect- 
ing this  precaution. 


• 

-avBRsrr 


CHAPTER  IV. 

TIME  REQUIRED  TO  ROOT  THE  CUTTINGS.  -  ENGRAVING  SHOW- 
ING A  ROOTED  CUTTING.  -  SOIL  IS  NECESSARY  FOR 
CUTTINGS  AS  SOON  AS  THEY  ARE  ROOTED.  -  HOW  TO  HAVE 
BUSHY  OR  STANDARD  PLANTS.  -  ENGRAVING  OF  PLANT 
EIGHT  WEEKS  OLD.  -  PROPER  PLACE  FOR  CUTTINGS  AFTER 
BEING  ROOTED. 

After  the  cuttings  have  been  in  the  sand  five  or  six 
weeks  they  should  be  well  rooted,  having  the  appearance  of 
figure  5.  This  cutting  has  made  a  half  an  inch  of  new  wood 
besides  forming  roots.  It  will  now  need  a  pot  with  soil. 
Do  not  allow  Azalea  cuttings  to  remain  in  the  sand  after 
being  well  rooted.  The  roots  of  this  cutting 
are  like  thread,  and  are  very  numerous, 
as  the  engraving  shows.  They  often  decay 
from  being  kept  too  long  in  the  sand  after 
being  rooted. 

Syringing  and  dampening  the  foliage,  that 
is  necessary  to  keep  the  insects  down,  will 
cause  the  roots  to  rot  off  of  the  cuttings  if 
not  attended  to  at  the  proper  time. 

After  the  cutting  is  well  rooted,  nothing 


p. 

Cuttin     well 


being  in  the  sand  to  nourish  it,  it  must  have 

eartn'  ^he  san<^  is  on^v  inten(le<l  to  ncal 
rooted.  the  wound  and  root  the  cutting.  The  cutting 
being  placed  in  a  two-inch  pot,  a  small  portion  of  the  top 
should  be  cut  off,  which  will  not  only  cause  the  young  plant 

29 


30  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

to  bush  and  form  new  shoots  but  will  greatly  help  to 
strengthen  the  roots.  Potting  will  retard  the  growth  for  a 
few  days  or  until  the  new  roots  adhere  to  the  fresh  soil. 
By  this  treatment  the  plants  will  be  low  and  well  bushed 
from  the  pot  up. 

Should  standard  Azaleas  be  preferred,  or  those  to  resem- 
ble grafted  plants,  then  allow  the  newly-rooted  cuttings  to 
grow  without  topping  until  September  or  tho  next  spring, 
when  the  tops  can  be  taken  out  and  they  will  bush  and  form 
heads,  and  have  the  appearance  of  grafted  plants. 

Figure  6  represents  a  cutting  after  being  removed  to  a 
pot.  It  is  eight  weeks  old.  I  notice  that  many  growers 
(and  I  have  done  it  myself  until  experience  taught  me 
better)  after  taking  the  cuttings  from  the  sand  and  placing 
them  in  pots,  generally  remove  them  to  the  benches  in  the 
greenhouse.  This  situation  will  have  a  fatal  effect.  Red 
spider  and  thrip  will  make  sad  havoc  among  them 
before  September. 

My  treatment  of  cuttings  after  being  potted  is 
to  place  them  in  a  frame  instead  of  on  a  greenhouse 
bench.  Then  cover  with  sash,  which  should  be 
shaded.  Keep  them  covered  with  glass  from  9 
a.m.  to  4  p.m.,  to  exclude  the  strong  rays  of  the 
sun,  not  forgetting  that  the  sash  should  be  re- 
moved every  day  after  the  sun  is  off  them,  that  they 
may  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  night  dews. 

If  the  dews  are  not  heavy,  syringe  twice  a  day 
Engraving 
of  plant   night    and   morning,  the  same    as  if  they  were 

weeks  old  placed    in    the   greenhouse.      A   little   attention 
in  a  pot.  AV}1811  t}1Cy  are  young  will  fully  repay  you.     Give 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  SI 

them,  water  at  the  roots  when  they  require  it.  Should 
they  want  water  badly  they  will  wilt,  but  they  should  never 
be  allowed  to  become  so  dry.  Air  the  frames  daily  and 
keep  the  young  plants  cool.  In  dark  or  rainy  weather  the 
sash  will  not  be  required  over  them.  Let  the  cuttings 
always  have  the  benefit  of  the  showers,  as  one  good  shower 
is  worth  a  dozen  artificial  waterings.  If  the  proper  care 
has  been  taken  to  follow  the  directions  given  they  will 
not  need  any  other  attention  until  the  middle  or  last  of 
September. 


CHAPTER  V. 

WHEN   TO  KEMOVE  THE   CUTTINGS  TO  THE  GREENHOUSE. 

ENGRAVING  OF  AZALEA  CUTTING   SIX   MONTHS  OLD. 

WH!:N  TO  RE— POT  THESE  PLANTS. ENGRAVING  OF  ONE 

YEAR  OLD  PLANT. WHEN  TO  REMOVE  FROM  GREENHOUSE. 

ENGRAVING  OF  ONE  YEAR  OLD  PLANT  WITH  TOPS  TAKEN 

OUT. ENGRAVING  OF  PLANT  EIGHTEEN  MONTHS  OLD. 

ENGRAVING   OF   PLANT  TWO  YEARS  OLD NUMBER  OF 

CUTTINGS  TO  BE  HAD  FROM  THIS  AGED  PLANT. ENGRAV- 
ING OF  PLANT  TWO  AND  A  HALF  YEARS  OLD. ENGRAVING 

OF  PLANT  FOUR  YEARS  jDLD. ENGRAVING  OF  PLANT  FIVE 

YEARS  OLD. ENGRAVING  OF  PLANT  FIVE  YEARS  OLD, 

TRIMMED  UP. 

By  the 'middle  or  last  of  Septem- 
ber those  plants  which  have  been  in 
the  frames  during  the  summer 
will  require  removing  to  the 
benches  in  the  greenhouse.  Keep 
them  up  within  eighteen  inches  of  the 
glass  that  they  may  have  all  the  ben- 
efit of  the  light  and  air  without 
allowing  them  to  be  in  a  draught. 
All  dead  leaves  should  be  removed 
before  bringing  them  to  the  house 
for  the  winter. 

At  this  time  these  cuttings  which 

were  placed  in  a  two-inch  pot  during 
Engraving  of  plant  six 

months  old.  May  should  have  the  appearance  of 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


33 


figure  7,  with  two  or  three  shoots  on  each  plant.  This 
growth  was  made  in  the  frame  during  the  summer.  Had 
they  not  been  topped  when  potted  they  would  have  had 
only  one  straight  stem. 

I  always  keep  Azaleas  from  cuttings  well  topped,  in 
order  to  have  them  low  and  bushy.  Grafted  plants  are 
treated  very  differently. 

The  plants  now  being  on  the  greenhouse  bench, 
syringe  twice  a  day ,  and  water  to  the  roots  when  dry.  The 
following  February  or  March  they  will  need  re  potting. 
They  should  all  be  of  such  a  size  as  to  require  a  three-inch  pot. 
Soon  after  this  they  will  make  their  young  growth,  and  by 
the  first  of  April  will  be  what  is  termed  a  one  year  old  plant 
from  a  cutting,  and  should  have  the  appearance  of  figure  8. 
Nip  the  top  of  the  young  wood  as  you  did  the  previous 

year.  These  plants  should 
be  removed  from  the  green- 
house to  the  open  air  in  May. 
Plunge  them  in  sand  or  any 
other  material  that  will  keep 
the  roots  cool  during  tho 
summer  months. 

Shade  is  not  nocessary 
after  the  first  year  for  this 
plant,as  so  many  recommend. 
I  put  them  out  in  the  hot 
scorching  sun,  being  careful 
that  they  are  removed  from 
the  greenhouse  on  a  wet 
Engraving  of  one  year  old  plant,  day. 


34 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


The  young  and  old  foliage  will  become  hardened  by  the 
tiine  the  sun  strikes  them.  If  put  out  on  a  clear  day  the 
sun  will  burn  the  foliage  and  the  plants  will  have  an 
unhealthy  and  unsightly  appearance. 

Both  the  Azalea  and  the  Camellia  will  stand  our  sum- 
mer suns  if  the  two  precautions  are  used,  putting  them  out 
on  a  wet  day  and  plunging  the  pot  to  the  rim  in  the  sand. 
I  do  not  approve  of  putting  them  in  the  shade  under 
trees,  as  the  drip  from  them  causes  many  unhealthy  plants, 
which  are  covered  with  vermin,  &c. 

If  the  plants  have  been 
properly  cared  for,  re-potted 
nnd  topped,  at  one  year  old 
they  should  have  the  appear- 
ance of  figure  9.  Plunge  the 
pots  in  beds  in  the  open  air 
during  May.  These  plants 
will  make  another  growth, 
covering  up  the  unsightly 
stems  which  have  been  topped. 
Many  of  them  will  form  buds 
and  bloom  the  second  season. 

The   plants   will   require    no 
One  year  old  plant  re-potted 

and  topped.  further  attention  except  water, 

ing,  and  occasionally,  during  the  months  of  June,  July 
and  August  when  the  night  dews  are  not  heavy,  syringe 
once  or  twice  a  day.  Syringing  and  dampening  the  foliage 
are  as  important  during  the  summer  as  if  the  plants  were 
housed.  By  September  these  plants  will  be  eighteen 
months  old,  their  buds  will  be  formed,  but  with  only  one 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


35 


or  two  flowers  on  each.  Perhaps  only  one -fourth  of  your 
stock  will  bloom.  Flowers  should  not  be  looked  for  on 
this  sized  plants ;  rather  encourage  them  to  grow. 
Although  tho  plants  are  small  and  in  three-inch  pots,  they 
are  worth,  at  present  prices  for  named  varieties,  ten  dollars 
per  hundred.  The  same  retail  for  twenty-five  cents  each, 
or  two  dollars  and  forty  cents  per  dozen. 

The  middle  of  September  the  plants  should  have  the 
appearance  of  figure  10. 

Remove  to  the  greenhouse 
benches  before  there  is  any 
danger  of  frost. 

Syringe  once  or  twice  a 
day  according  to  the  heat  in 
the  house. 

Young  plants  of  Azaleas 
thrive  best  in  a  cool  house. 

The   following    March    or 
April  the  plants  will  be  two 
years   old  and  most   of  them 
will    require  a  four-inch  pot. 
They  each  will  have  perhaps 
from  two  to  three  flowers,  as 
figure    11    represents.     They 
are  worth,  at  wholesale  price, 
fifteen  dollars  per  hundred. 
After  making  their  growth  the  second  season  take  the 
the  tops  from  such  shoots  as  are  getting  long,  or  from  those 
which  give  the  plant  an  unsightly  appearance. 
This  wood  can  be  used  for  cuttings. 


Fig.  10. 

Engraving  eighteen  months 
old  plant. 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


Each  plant  at  this  age 
will  produce  from  six  to 
eight  cuttings  or  five 
times  that  number  of 
grafts. 

Remove  the  plants 
to  the  open  air,  plunging 
them  in  sand  and  using 
the  precautions  for  set- 
ing  out  that  were  used 
the  previous  year,  not  for- 
getting to  syringe  daily. 
The  fall  of  this  season 
the  plants  will  be  two 
and  a  half  years  old. 

P.  They  should  be  well 

Engraving  two  years  old  plant.  budded  and  finely  shaped, 
and  will  command,  at  trade  price,  twenty  dollars  per 
hundred,  or  five  dollars  a  dozen,  retail. 

Figure  12  represents  a  plant  two  and  a  half  years  old 
in  a  four-inch  pot,  in  September.  Use  the  same  treatment 
as  for  former  years. 

The  third  year  re-pot  all  Azaleas  that  need  it  dur- 
ing the  month  of  February  or  March  before  they  make 
their  young  growth. 

The  fresh  soil  will  greatly  benefit  both  the  young 
growth  and  the  flowers. 

Top  all  shoots  and  use  them  for  cuttings,  as  you  did 
in  previous  years.  Put  the  plants  outside  at  the  proper 
time. 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


37 


This  being  the  third 
year,  many  Azaleas  will 
need  five-inch  pots ;  re-pot 
only  those  that  require  it. 
Let  the  pots  be  filled  with 
roots.  Keep  the  plants 
in  good  shape  by  topping. 
Use  the  knife  freely. 
Azaleas  will  grow  or 
break  freely  from  either 
the  young  or  old  wood. 

They  are  not  like  the 
Camellia,  but  will  make 
two  growths  in  one  season 
without  injuring  the 
flower  buds. 

Some  Azaleas  make  a 
growth  in  September,  and 
flower  the  coming  season. 
Figure  13  represents  a  plant  four  years  old  in  a  five- 
inch  pot.     It  is  finely  budded  and  well  shaped,   and  will 
produce   about   fifty  flowers.     Give   the   same    treatment 
us  for  former  years. 

Wholesale  price  of  plants  this  age,  four  dollars  per  dozen, 
or  thirty  to  thirty-five  dollars  per  hundred. 

Plants  over  four  years  old  may  only  need  re-potting 
once  in  two  years,  and  as  they  become  older  will  only 
need  it  once  in  from  three  to  five  years.  The  grower 
must  be  the  judge  of  this.  If  the  plants  are  in  a  healthy 


Fig.  12. 

Engraving  two  years  and  a  half 
old  plant. 


38 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


condition  and  doing  well  do  not  disturb  them  until  the  roots 

have  extended  to  the 
sides  of  the  pot. 

When  the  ground 
has  soured,  the  drainage 
has  become  imperfect, 
and  the  plants  are  not 
in  a  healthy  condition. 
Reduce  the  ball  of 
earth,  give  fresh  drain- 
age and  a  smaller  pot. 
Do  not  give  large  pots 
to  sickly  plants. 

Encourage  them  to 
make  new  roots.  Aza- 
leas shed  or  lose  many 
of  their  leaves  in  the 
fall  and  winter,  and 
many  persons  imagine 
their  plants  are  dying. 

Flg'  I3*  This  is  natural  to  the 

Engraving  of  four  year  old  plant.         ^  ^  deciduous)> 

They  will  fill  up  this  nakedness  with  fresh  green  foliage 
the  following  season. 

When  Azaleas  are  in  an  unhealthy  condition  their 
foliage  becomes  a  yellowish-green,  and  they  grow  very 
slowly  or  not  at  all.  Old  plants  may  be  dying  for  years 
before  they  arc  noticed  by  those  who  have  had  a  limited 
experience. 


AZALEA   CULTURE. 


Fig.  14- 
Engraving  of  a  five  year  old  plant. 

Figure  14  represents  a  well  grown  plant  of  good  shape, 
five  years  old  from  a  cutting.  It  is  grown  in  such  a  way 
that  it  can  be  trimmed  up  to  one  straight  stem. 

There  are  other  varieties  of  the  low  growing  kind,  which 
are  better-grafted  if  you  wish  them  to  form  heads  on  straight 
stems. 


40 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


Fig.  15. 
Engraving  of  a  five  year  old  plant,  trimmed  up. 

Figure  15  represents  the  same  plant  five  years  old  from 
a  cutting,  with  stem  trimmed  up  to  give  it  the  appearance 
of  a  grafted  plant.  Any  of  the  strong  growing  varieties 
can  be  trimmed  in  this  way. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ON    GRAFTING    THE    AZALEA. — THE     PROCESS     I     PREFER. THE 

BEST    STOCK    TO    USE. 

t  am  often  asked  which  I  prefer,  the  grafted  plants  of 
the  Azalea  or  those  grown  from  the  cuttings.  I  grow 
largely  of  this  plant,  and  practice  both  growing  from  cut- 
tings and  from  grafting.  Sometimes  I  inarch,  but  very 
seldom.  I  have  a  preference,  not  that  one  way  is  better 
than  the  other  in  respect  to  flowering,  for  there  is  no  differ- 
ence  in  this  particular,  but  there  is  a  difference  in  the 
appearance  of  the  plants  after  they  are  five  years  and  older. 
As  this  is  only  a  matter  of  taste,  each  grower  of  the  Azalea 
must  decide  for  himself. 

I  prefer  the  grafted  plants  for  one  reason  only  :  if  they 
receive  the  proper  attention  and  the  young  shoots  are 
pinched  or  topped  often,  they  will  form  beautiful  round 
heads  on  stems  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  from  the  pot, 
and  when  in  flower  will  be  an  ornament  for  the  conservatory, 
parlor  or  greenhouse.  Large  plants  can  be  grafted  with 
several  different  kinds  on  one  plant,  but  I  prefer  to  graft 
the  young  plant  and  with  only  one  variety. 

The  old  plants  cannot  be  grafted  with  the  same  success 
as  the  young  ones,  and  further,  they  cannot  be  as  shapely 
as  those  which  are  grafted  on  the  stock  one  year  old. 

Many  varieties  that  grow  strong  from  cuttings  can  be 
trimmed  up  and  have  the  appearance  of  those  that  are 

41 


42  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

grafted  with  fine  round  heads  by  pinching  the  young  shoots 
and  keeping  them  up  to  one  straight  stem. 

Of  all  plants  I  grow,  and  of  all  methods  of  increasing 
them,  there  is  none  so  interesting  as  grafting  the  young 
Azalea.  It  is  so  easily  performed,  and  with  such  great  suc- 
cess, that  there  is  seldom  found  a  dead  one  in  five  hundred. 

Keep  a  supply  of  plants  on  hand  of  the  white 
variety  named  Indica  Alba,  .to  use  as  a  stock  on  which  to 
graft,  or  the  variety  named  Phoenicia,  which  makes  equally 
as  good  a  stock  to  graft  upon.  I  prefer  Indica  Alba,  for  the 
reason  that  the  plants  are  always  valuable,  while  those  of 

.    *t  4 

Phoenicia  are  worthless  as  regards  flowers. 

By  keeping  a  few  of  these  stocks  on  hand  the  grower 
will  have  a  quick  way  of  getting  a  supply  of  any  new  kind 
which  may  be  introduced. 

Most  of  our  new  varieties  of  Azaleas  are  imported  from 
Europe. 

It  is  the  aim  of  all  importers  and  growers  of  this  plant 
to  get  the  new  kind  propagated  early  by  means  of  grafting. 
This  can  be  done  if  the  stocks  are  in  condition,  and  there 
is  young  wood  on  the  newly-imported  variety.  By  the 
process  of  grafting,  plants  can  be  in  condition  to  sell  in  six 
weeks  after  tho  parent  plants  have  been  imported. 

These  small  grafted  plants,  with  probably  one  inch  of 
the  new  kind  on  the  stock  growing,  will  oftentimes  com- 
mand a  higher  price  than  those  of  the  older  varieties  three 
and  four  years  old. 

It  is  not  the  size  or  age  that  causes  them  to  sell  at  a  high 
figure,  but  it  is  some  new  variety  that  has  never  been  in 
our  collection. 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  43 

It  is  therefore  the  interest  of  all  growers  to  procure  the 
new  kinds  as  early  as  possible,  in  order  to  be  able  to  offer 
them  as  soon  as  they  are  in  demand. 

Azalea  stocks  should  always  be  kept  on  hand. 

My  reason  for  recommending  Indica  Alba  in  preference 
to  Phoenicia  for  a  stock  is  that  they  can  be  grown  as  other 
varieties,  and  the  plants  and  flowers  are  always  salable, 
even  should  you  not  wish  to  graft  all  the  stock  of 
Alba  you  have  on  hand. 

Phoenicia  is  equally  as  good  for  a  stock,  but  the  flowers 
which  are  a  dark  purple  have  no  demand,  and  are  really 
worthless  after  they  are  too  old  to  be  used  as  a  stock. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

ENGRAVING    OF    CUTTING    OF    INDICA    ALBA    TO    BE    USED    AS    A 
STOCK. ENGRAVING    OF    INDICA   ALBA    ROOTED. 

Grafting  the  Azalea  differs  entirely  from  the  Camellia. 
The  stock  on  which  I  graft  is  Indica  Alba,  the 
old  single  white.  Although  I  use  this  for  a  stock,  I  consider 
it  the  best  single  white  in  my  collection  for  flowers  and  for 
early  forcing.  It  should  be  grown  largely  by  those  who 
grow  for  profit.  It  is  easily  rooted,  of  quick  growth,  and 
makes  a  strong  stock. 

Grow  this  variety  precisely  the  same  as  the  other  kinds, 
with  one  exception  :  make  the  cuttings  a  little  longer,  say 
about  three  inches.  Remove  two  or  three  leaves  from  the 
bottom  of  the  cutting,  as  represented  in  figure  1 6  ;  place  in 
boxes.  In  previous  chapters  will  be  found 
full  directions  for  rooting  this  cutting. 

Figure  17  represents  a  cutting  of  Indica 
Alba  rooted.  It  is  five  weeks  since  it  was 
placed  in  the  sand. 

It  has  made  a  growth  of  half  an  inch, 
which  will  be  seen  by  the  engraving.  If 
this  plant  is  wanted  to  be  used,  on  which 
to  graft  the  new  kind,  do  not  remove  the 
top. 

Fig.  1 6.  If  to  be  grown  without  grafting,  I  would 

Cutting  three    advise    the    top  to  be  pinched  out  when 
inches  long.      pottedj  in  order  to  make  a  bushy  plant. 

44 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


45 


If  for  grafting  allow  the  top  to  grow,  and 
in  four  weeks  after  being  potted  this  plant 
will  be  in  a  suitable  condition  to  graft. 

The  young  wood  of  the  imported  kinds, 
which  is  suitable  to  graft  on  this  stock,  will 
at  this  time  be  found  very  scarce,  as  the  young 
growth  has  been  made  and  buds  are  forming 
for  the  next  season's  flowering.  Therefore 
this  hardened  wood  is  not  suitable  to  use  for 
grafts. 

My  practice  is  to  grow  the  stock  until  the 
following  February  or  March,  when  it  will 
be  one  year  old,  and  then  graft  upon  it. 
Keep  the  stocks  in  the  smallest  size  pots 

until  after  the^  are  grafted- 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

BEST     TIME     TO     GRAFT     THE     AZALEA. SUITABLE     WOOD     FOR 

GRAFTING. 2NGRAVING  OF  BOX  TO   RECEIVE  THE  GRAFTS. 

ENGRAVING    OF    MY    FRAME    OF    GRAFTED    PLANTS. 

I  advise  the  Azalea  to  be  grafted  in  February  and 
March. 

Where  the  florist's  business  is  conducted  properly,  there 
are  certain  months  for  performing  the  different  modes  of 
propagation.  The  plants  from  which  the  wood  is  taken 
must  be  your  guide  in  regard  to  the  proper  time.  For 
instance,  I  am  most  successful  in  grafting  the  Azalea  during 
the  months  of  February  or  March,  when  the  wood,  both 
graft  and  stock,  is  very  young. 

I  usually  work  about  three  thousand  plants  at  this 
time. 

I  also  practice  grafting  at  other  times  during  tho  year, 
but  in  limited  quantities,  and  not  with  the  same  success  as 
in  the  months  recommended. 

Most  Azaleas  seen  with  fine  round  symmetrical  heads 
on  a  bare  stem  of  twelve  inches  from  the  pot,  are  grafted 
plants. 

Do  your  grafting  of  this  plant  during  February  and 
March.  At  this  time  the  imported  kinds  will  be  show'ng 
their  young  shoots.  The  stocks  will  also  be  in  fine  con- 
dition for  this  work.  The  wood  being  very  young,  great 
care  must  be  exercised  so  as  not  to  allow  the  young  graft 
to  wilt  or  flag  before  or  after  it  is  worked. 

46 


AZALEA,    CULTURE. 


47 


For  grafting  there  is  a  frame  or  box  needed  inside  the 
greenhouse,  with  two  coverings  of  glass. 

Place  the  frame  inside  of  tho  house,  putting  a  sash  or 
a  covering  of  glass  over  it.  Inside  of  the  frame  nail  strips 
on  the  sides,  having  them  extend  across  the  frame,  or  in 
any  way  that  you  may  think  best,  so  as  to  allow  another 
covering  of  glass.  I  use  for  this  inside  covering  single 
panes  of  glass. 


Fig.  18. 
Box  for  grafting. 

Figure  18  represents  a  box  frame,  showing  grafts,  and 
also  the  coverings  needed. 

For  persons  who  do  not  graft  in  large  quantities  a  bell 
glass  will  answer. 

When  grafted  in  large  quantities  a  frame  is  needed,  and 
a  double  covering  of  glass  is  really  necessary,  as  it  is  im- 
possible to  keep  a  sufficient  quantity  of  air  from  them  with 
only  the  sash. 

Use  the  double  covering  and  your  success  will  be  sure. 

Exclude  the  air  as  much  as  possible  from  the  young 
grafts. 


48  AZALEA    CULTU11E. 

The  younger  the  wood  of  both  stock  and  graft,  the  more 
easily  they  will  unite. 

If  properly  done,  the  directions  being  followed,  they 
will  unite  in  forty-eight  hours. 

By  many,  the  time  may  be  considered  very  short  for  a 
graft  to  unite  to  the  stock.  As  I  have  remarked  before,  in 
the  rooting  of  the  cutting,  it  is  done  and  can  be  shown. 

One  very  important  point  in  grafting  this  plant  is  to 
have  young  wood,  as  it  unites  more  readily. 

Keep  them  close  for  two  weeks,  when  the  panes  of  glass 
can  be  removed  from  the  inside  of  the  frame.  Then  with 
good  shading  and  the  one  covering  of  glass  they  should  not 
wilt  or  flag.  Should  they  show  a  tendency  to  flag,  put  the 
glass  back  again  that  was  removed.  Keep  their  heads 
erect. 


&* 

TJ-NIV-ERBITY 

AZALEA    CULTURE.          .  ^ 


50  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

Figure  19  represents  my  frame  for  grafting  inside  of 
the  greenhouse. 

Make  the  frame  to  suit  the  number  of  plants  that  are  to 
be  grafted. 

The  engraving  shows  frame  forty  feet  long  by  three 
feet  wide,  twelve  inches  high.  It  will  accommodate  three 
thousand  plants,  which  is  the  number  I  generally  graft  in 
February  and  March. 

Notice  the  two  coverings.  This  is  all  necessary  to  grow 
graft  for  plant. 

To  grow  seventy-five  out  of  one  hundred  is  not  what  I 
call  a  success.  Many  growers  would  be  satisfied  with  this 
number.  I  want  ninety -five  out  of  one  hundred,  or  there 
has  been  a  lack  of  attention. 

With  all  the  coverings  of  glass  that  I  have  recommend- 
ed, the  frame  is  not  air-tight,  nor  do  we  wish  it  so,  but 
it  will  tend  to  keep  enough  air  away  from  them  to  unite  the 
graft. 

Keep  the  sash  well  darkened  with  whiting.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  whiten  the  single  panes  of  glass  that  are  inside. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ENGRAVING    SHOWING    STOCK    SUITABLE    FOR    GRAFTING. HOW 

TO     GRAFT. ENGRAVING    SHOWING    HOW    TO     INSERT    THE 

GRAFT. ENGRAVING    SHOWING    PLANT    GRAFTED. DIREC- 
TIONS FOR  GRAFTING. 

Figure  20  represents  the  Azalea  stock,  which  is  one 
year  old,  in  a  two-inch  pot.     Plant  six  inches  high. 

Notice  in  the  engraving  where  the  line  is 
drawn  and  marked  A.  This  is  where  the 
top  should  be  taken  from  the  plant  to 
insert  the  graft.  The  smallest  particle  is 
only  taken  off. 

The  stocks  are  not  fit  to  graft  upon  if 
they  are  not  in  a  growing  state,  and  having 
young  wood  on  the  tip  ends  where  the  grafts 
are  to  be  placed.  The  graft  which  is  to  be 

inserted  in  this  stock  must  also  be  of  the 
Fig.  20. 

Oi    ,  young  wood. 

Stock  one  year   • 

old.  The  younger  the  wood  is  of  both,  the 

surer  the  success. 

Do  not  cut  the  top  from  the  stocks  before  you  are 
ready  to  place  the  grafts  on  them. 

The  same  care  should  be  taken  of  the  grafts,  not  for- 
getting that  a  newly-made  wound,  if  bandaged  and  attended 
to  immediately,  is  more  quickly  healed  than  one  which  has 
remained  open  some  time. 

51 


, 


52  AZALEA  CULTURE. 

Use  none  but  good  healthy  plants  for  stocks.  Let  the 
grafts  be  the  same. 

Figure  21  represents  the  stock  with  the  top  taken  off, 
the  opening  is  made  in  the  stock  and  the  graft  placed.  I 
use  what  is  termed  by  florists  a  wedge  graft.  Cut  the  stock 
right  through  the  middle  of  the  stem,  as  the  engraving 
shows,  but  only  allow  this  cut  to  be  a  quarter  of  an  inch  or 
less  down.  A  good  knife  is  best  to  use 
here. 

Take  the  young  graft  which  is  intended 
for  the  stock,  not  allowing  it  to  be  more 
than  half  an  inch  in  length.  Slice  the 
smallest  portion  of  wood  from  each  side. 
If  the  graft  is  so  young  and  soft  that  the 
knife  will  not  pare  it,  then  scrape  it.  Only 
the  smallest  portion  of  the  wood  is  to  be 
taken  from  the  piece  which  is  intended  for 

"  "&"  :  the  graft. 

How  to  insert 

the  graft.  Insert  the  graft  and  tie  with  thread,  and 

it  should  have  the  appearance  of  figure  22.  This  operation 
is  now  complete. 

As  soon  as  there  are  a  dozen,  or  even  less,  grafted, 
remove  them  to  the  frame. 

The  wood  being  very  soft  they  will  not  stand  erect  long 
without  being  in  a  close  place. 

If  they  wilt  down  at  this  time,  both  labor  and  time  have 
been  spent  for  nothing. 

Keep  them  erect  for  the  first  three  days,  and  success  is 
certain.  •  After  the  plants  have  been  grafted  ten  days  or 
two  w^eks,  remove  the  single  panes  or  the  inside  covering 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  53 

of  glass,  keeping  the  sash  over  them  three  weeks  longer, 
then  gradually  give  them  air. 

The  first  day  raise  the  sash  a  half  inch,  closing  it  at 
night  for  one  week,  after  this  time  allow 
more  air,  gradually  hardening  them 
off.  After  the  fifth  or  sixth  week 
the  sash  can  be  removed  from  the  frame. 
The  grafts  will  now  be  firmly  united, 
and  the  unions  hardened. 

The  thread  which  held  the  grafts  in 
position  should  now  be  taken  off.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  tie  the  graft  again  like 
hard  wood  grafting. 

At  this  time  the  stock  which  has  been 
Graft  inserted  and 

tied.  newly  grafted  will  have  a  tendency  to 

throw  out  shoots  below  the  graft.  All  such  shoots  should  be 
removed  at  once.  The  newly-inserted  graft  is  the  only 
portion  of  the  plant  that  should  grow. 

It  will  not  be  necessary  to  syringe  the  grafted  plants  while 
they  are  in  the  frame.  They  will  receive  ample  moisture 
from  the  glass,  caused  by  keeping  the  frame  close.  Often- 
times there  is  too  much  moisture  in  the  frames.  Obviate 
this  by  ventilating  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  or  just  long 
enough  to  dry  the  extra  moisture  in  the  frame  This  damp- 
ness often  proves  disastrous  to  the  young  graft,  therefore 
care  and  watchfulness  must  be  exercised  at  this  time. 


CHAPTER  X. 


ENGRAVING    OF    PLANT    SIX    WEEKS    AFTER    BEING    GRAFTED. 

ENGRAVING    OF    GRAFTED    PLANT    WITH     THE    TOP     NIPPED 

OUT. TIME  TO  RE-POT    YOUNG  GRAFTED    PLANTS. THREE 

ENGRAVINGS    OF    PLANTS     TWO,     THREE,    AND    FOUR    YEARS 
FROM    GRAFT. 

Figure  23  represents  a  plant  six  weeks  after  being 
grafted.  The  graft  is  firmly  united  to  the  stock.  It  has 
made  a  growth  of  about  two  inches  before  the  thread 
has  been  taken  off.  These  plants  will  all 
require  re-potting.  Give  them  three- 
inch  pots,  which  is  one  size  larger  than 
those  in  which  they  have  been  grafted. 
Fresh  soil  at  this  time  will  encourage  the 
grafts  to  grow. 

Remove  these  to  the  open  air  in  May. 
Plunge  the  pots  in  sand,  taking  the  neces- 
sary precaution  to  set  them  out  on  a  wet 
day. 

Nip  the  tops  from  the  grafts  before 
putting  them  outside,  and  they  will  have 
the  appearance  of  figure  24.  These 
plants  require  nothing  further  for  the  summer  except  water 
at  the  roots  when  dry,  and  syringe  once  or  twice  a  day. 

Occasionally  during  the  summer  nip  the  tops,  in  order 
that  they  may  begin  early  to  form  heads. 

Remove  to  the  greenhouse  in  September.     Syringe  once 

54 


Fig.  23. 

Graft  firmly 
united. 


AZALEA  CULTURE. 


a  day  until  the  next  spring,  February  or  March,  when  the 
plants  will  be  one  year  old  from  grafts,  or  two  years  old 
from  cuttings.  At  this  time  they  will  require  re-potting, 
and  should  be  ready  for  four-inch  pots.  Many  of  them 
should  produce  from  two  to  four  flowers. 

A  portion  of  the  young  growth  that  they 
will  make  this  spring  can  be  used  for  cuttings 
or  grafts.  This  will  also  tend  to  give  them 
fine  heads  for  the  following  fall,  with  flower 
buds.  Kemove  to  the  open  air  in  May,  as 
before. 

The  coming  fall,  which  is  the  second  year 
from  graft  or  the  third  year  from  cutting, 
they    should   be    finely    shaped    and   well 
budded,  and  should  have  the  appearance  of 
figure  25.     At  present  prices  they  are  worth 
twenty-five  dollars  per  hundred,  trade  price. 
The  same  retail  at  fifty  cents  a  piece,  or  five 
dollars  a  dozen. 
Treat  as  described  for  the  previous  winter. 
The  spring  of  the  following  year  the  plants  should  be 
good,  producing  from  twenty  to  forty  flowers. 

The  plants  at  this  age  will  give  quantities  of  cuttings 
and  grafts. 

Many  of  them  will  require  five-inch  pots. 
Keep  the  plants  well  topped  with  a  view  of  having  good 
round  heads  for  the  fall  of  the  third  year.  They  should 
have  somewhat  the  appearance  of  figure  26.  The  fall  of 
this  the  third  season  from  the  graft,  the  plants  will  be 
shapely,  and  of  good  size,  well  covered  with  flower 


Fig.  24. 

Grafted  plant 
topped. 


56 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


buds,  and  will  be  becoming 
valuable.  Trade  price,  from 
forty  to  fifty  dollars  per  hundred ; 
retail  price,  one  dollar  each. 

The  following  spring,  which 
is  the  fourth  year  from  grafts, 
they  should  flower  profusely,  in 
fact,  in  such  quantities  that  but 
little  of  the  foliage  will  be  seen 
when  they  are  in  bloom. 

Grafted  plants  are  worth 
more,  and  are  sold  at  a  higher 
figure  at  this  age,  than  those  of 


Fig.  25. 

Plant  two  years  from  graft, 
the      same     age      grown 
from  cuttings. 

Grafted  plants  form 
beautiful  heads. 

The  cost  of  handling 
makes  the  difference  in 
price  between  the  two 
methods  of  propagating. 

Figure  27  represents 
a  well-grown  plant,  with 
a  fine  head,  and  covered 
with  flower  buds.  It  is 
four  years  old  from  graft, 
and  should  measure  in 
diameter  from  fourteen 


Fig.  26. 
Plant  three  years  from  graft. 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


57 


to  sixteen  inches.  This  is  a  handsome  plant  for  the  green- 
house, conservatory,  or  for  exhibition.  The  trade  price, 
seventy-five  dollars  per  hundred ;  retail  price,  one  dollar 
and  fifty  cents  each. 


Fig.  27.     Plant  four  years  from  graft. 


CHAPTER  XL 

GENERAL      TREATMENT       AND  CULTURE      REQUIRED      FOR      THE 

AZALEA      AFTER       IT      IS      EIGHT      YEARS      AND      OLDER. 

ENGRAVING    OF    A     WELL  GROWN     PLANT     FOUR     FEET     IN 
DIAMETER. 

Plants  of  this  age  are  easily  managed,  and  require  but  little 
attention,  compared  to  many  other  plants.  All  Azaleas  of 
this  size,  in  re-potting,  should  be  well  drained.  Broken 
pots,  oyster  shells,  or  any  hard  material,  will  answer,  that 
will  allow  the  water  to  pass  out  without  clogging  up  the 
holes  which  are  in  the  bottom  of  the  tubs  or  pots. 

I  consider  drainage  an  important  matter  for  all  plants 
that  are  not  re-potted  every  season.  (See  chapter  on 
drainage.) 

All  Azaleas,  both  large  and  small,  should  be  put  out  in 
the  open  air  during  the  summer  months.  As  remarked 
before,  it  is  not  necessary  to  give  them  shade,  but  care 
should  be  taken  to  place  the  plants  outside  on  a 
wet  day. 

Azaleas  are  somewhat  like  Camellias,  they  have  a  time 
for  making  their  young  growth,  after  which  they  form  buds, 
and  flower  the  coming  fall  and  winter. 

One  advantage  Azaleas  have  over  the  Camellias  :  they 
will  make  a  young  growth  in  the  spring.  While  in  flower, 
part  of  this  young  wood  can  be  taken  for  cuttings  or  grafts. 
The  plants  will  break  again  and  make  a  second  growth  from 

58 


AZALEA  CULTURE. 


59 


the  old  and  young  wood.  This  will  not  in  any  way  inter- 
fere with  the  flowering  of  the  plant  the  coming  season. 

Water  plants  of  this  size  and  age  when  dry  at  the  roots, 
giving  them  enough  to  wet  every  root  and  fiber. 

When  the  soil  is  dry  it  will  have  a  white  appearance. 

Syringe  often,  never  less  than  once  a  day. 

They  are  subject  to  red  spider,  thrip,  &c. 

I  have  yet  to  see  a  collection  of  Azaleas  that  are  entirely 
free  from  these  pests  during  the  months  of  March  and 
April,  just  before  they  are  put  in  the  open  air.  If  syring. 
ing  is  attended  to  properly,  they  will  not  be  found  in  such 
large  quantities  as  to  cause  the  plant  to  be  unhealthy. 
They  will  all  disappear  soon  after  being  brought  out  in  the 
open  air.  Heat  and  moisture  are  sure  death  to  these  insects. 
(See  chapter  on  insects.) 

During  the  months  of  March  and  April,  while  the  Aza- 
leas are  under  glass,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  the  glass 
partly  shaded,  to  keep  the  strong  rays  of  the  sun  from 
burning  the  young  foliage.  Do  not  put  a  dark  cover  over 
them,  as  is  often  done. 

All  plants  require  light,  the  same  as  human  beings,  but 
not  the  strong  rays  of  the  sun  between  the  hours  of  10 
a.m.  and  3  p.m. 

To  exclude  the  rays  of  the  sun  use  a  wash  for  the  glass 
of  linseed  oil  and  turpentine ;  this  will  be  sufficient 
shade. 

Figure  28  represents  a  well  grown  and  finely  shaped 
plant  of  Indica  Alba,  grown  from  a  cutting. 

This  plant  measures  five  feet  in  height,  and  four  feet  in 
diameter.  It  will  produce  one  thousand  or  more  flowers 


60 


AZALEA   CULTURE. 


Fig.  28. 

Indica  Alba,  from  a  cutting.    A  well  grown  plant,  four  feet  in 
diameter. 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  61 

annually.  Plants  of  this  size  are  rarely  sold.  It  pays  the 
owner  to  keep  them  for  the  flowers. 

The  plant,  which  will  be  seen  in  engraving  28,  is  in  a 
fine  healthy  condition. 

This  variety,  old  Indica  Alba,  the  single  white  flower,  is 
to  Azaleas  what  the  Alba  Plena  is  to  Camellias,  being  the 
best  for  profit.  Taking  all  its  qualities  into  consideration, 
it  roots  freely,  is  a  robust  grower,  a  sure  and  profuse 
flowerer.  It  is  one  that  is  easily  forced  for  early  flowers, 
and  not  affected  or  injured  by  the  extreme  heat  of  the  forcing 
house,  and  lastly,  I  consider  it  the  best  one  to  grow  to  use 
as  a  stock  upon  which  to  graft.  The  plant,  when  young,  is 
always  strong  and  erect.  This  quality  in  a  stock  is  not 
found  in  all  varieties  of  Azaleas. 

There  are  many  other  good  single  white  Azaleas,  better 
than  the  Alba  in  some  respects,  but  they  do  not  possess  the 
combined  qualities  of  the  Indica  Alba. 

The  cut  flowers  of  the  Azalea,  which  are  open,  are  worth 
but  little  to  send  any  distance. 

The  buds  can  be  sent  in  safety  when  the  time  does  not 
exceed  three  days.  For  home  consumption  the  open 
flowers  are  valuable  and  indispensable. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

FORCING  AZALEAS. HOW  TO  TREAT  THEM. 

t  ' 

Forcing  is  what  may  be  termed  giving  the  plants  extra 
artificial  heat  to  cause  them  to  bloom  early. 

I  know  of  no  plant  which  can  stand  more  heat  than  the 
Azalea,  without  becoming  sickly.  If  you  wish  them  to 
flower  early,  they  can  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  ninety 
to  one  hundred  degrees  without  any  bad  effect  to  the  plant, 
providing  they  are  syringed  often,  never  less  than  twice  a 
day,  watering  at  the  roots  when  they  require  it. 

Or  this  plant  will  thrive  in  a  cool-house  where  the  ther- 
mometer does  not  get  below  forty  degrees. 

Kept  at  this  low  temperature  they  will  not  bloom  before 
March  or  April. 

This  interesting  group  of  plants  adorns  the  greenhouse, 
hot-house,  conservatory,  or  parlor,  during  the  dull  months. 
They  should  be  cultivated  in  such  a  way  as  to  be  made  to 
bloom  from  November  to  May,  by  having  a  succession  of 
plants. 

Those  that  you  wish  to  bloom  early  should  be  brought 
to  the  forcing  house  the  first  of  September. 

The  first  season  it  will  perhaps  be  difficult  to  bring  the 
plants  into  flower  before  the  middle  or  last  of  December. 
After  this  year  there  will  not  be  any  trouble  in  forcing 
them  to  bloom  the  first  part  of  November.  The  plants 
which  bloomed  the  past  season  in  December  will  make  their 
growth  and  form  their  buds  for  the  next  season's  flowering, 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  63 

before  those  which  have  been  kept  in  the  cool-house  will 
have  made  their  flowers. 

When  forcing  this  plant  do  not  allow  it  to  be  checked 
by  giving  an  extra  quantity  of  air.  Both  light  and  air  are 
beneficial  to  all  plants,  and  the  Azalea  needs  much  of  it, 
but  they  will  not  stand  a  draught  at  this  time.  Care  is  also 
required  after  they  have  flowered. 

Those  that  have  been  in  the  forcing  house  when  making 
their  young  wood  should  not  have  a  check,  as  it  will  greatly 
interfere,  not  only  with  the  health  of  the  plant,  but  the 
bloom  for  the  coming  season  will  be  limited,  some  plants, 
perhaps,  having  no  bloom. 

The  flowers  which  these  forced  plants  will  produce  will 
not  be  as  large  in  size  as  those  which  have  been  kept  cool, 
neither  will  the  colored  varieties  be  as  bright  in  color,  but 
the  advantage  of  having  them  bloom  early  will  be  of  greater 
value. 

This  plant  is  well  adapted  for  both  the  hot  or  cool 
greenhouse,  and  is  capable  of  enduring  a  very  high  temper- 
ature without  injury,  providing  syringing  and  watering  is 
properly  attended  to.  Do  not  forget  that  red  spider 
thrives  in  a  hot  and  dry  atmosphere ;  it  cannot  exist  long 
where  heat  arid  moisture  are  combined. 

In  forcing  Azaleas  a  good  exposure  to  light  is  necessary. 

Never  crowd  them. 

Admit  air  in  mild  weather. 

Do  not  allow  them  to  have  a  check  while  being  kept  at 
a  high  temperature. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


SHOWING  THE  BEST  WAY  FOR  THE  AMATEUR  FLORIST  TO  ROOT 
THE  CUTTINGS. —  ENGRAVING  OF  BOX  OF  CUTTINGS  FOR 
THE  AMATEUR  FLORIST  OR  THOSE  WHO  WISH  TO  PRO- 
PAGATE IN  LIMITED  QUANTITIES. 

In  former  chapters  will  be  found  all  the  necessary  direc- 
tions for  taking  the  cuttings,  the  time  to  place  them  in  the 
sand,  and  the  proper  attention  to  be  given  them. 

For  amateurs  not  growing  this  cutting  in  large  quantities, 
I  will  show  a  box  most  suitable  for  their  cuttings,  in  engrav- 
ing 29.  This  box  is  ten  inches  wide,  fifteen  inches  long,  and 
three  inches  deep,  holding  seven  varieties  of  Azaleas,  as 

will  be  noticed  by  the 
labels  in  the  engrav- 
ing. 

Make  the  box  to 
suit  the  number  of 
cuttings  that  are  to  be 
grown. 

This  box,  represent- 
ed in  figure  29,  has  the 
appearance  of  a  tight 
glass  case,  but  it  is 
nothing  but  four  panes 
of  common  glass  press- 


Fig.  29. 

Box  for  Cuttings. 

ed  to  the  bottom  of  the  box  ;   the  sand  holds  the  four  panes 
in  position  without  any  other  support.     The  covering  is  a 

64 


AZALEA  CULTURE.  65 

single  pane  laid  on  the  top  of  the  four.  A  box  arranged 
in  this  way  will  answer  as  well  as  a  frame  for  rooting  the 
cuttings.  The  box, when  covered,  is  by  no  means  air-tight, 
but  many  would  imagine  it  so. 

If  they  were  kept  perfectly  air-tight  they  would  damp, 
the  young  foliage  becoming  black,  and  the  cuttings  would 
be  worthless.  The  covering  is  merely  intended  to  keep  a 
portion  of  air  from  the  young  cuttings,  and  prevent  them 
flagging  or  wilting  for  the  first  week.  After  this  time  all 
the  glass  must  be  removed. 

The  first  day  the  cuttings  enter  the  sand  keep  them  close. 
After  this  keep  the  top  pane  elevated  to  admit  some  air. 
Watch  the  young  cuttings,  and  if  they  flag  badly  there  is 
too  much  air  circulating  about  them. 

Let  the  sand  that  is  used  be  clean  and  fresh  from  bank 
or  river.  Ihe  boxes  or  pans  imist  be  new. 

Cleanliness  is  a  very  important  matter  to  be  considered 
in  the  cutting  bed. 

Keep  the  boxes  in  a  cool  place.  Syringe  with  clean 
water  twice  a  day. 

In  former  chapters  will  be  found  other  instructions  if 
they  are  needed. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

GRAFTING    AZALEAS    FOR  AMATEUR  CULTURE,  ETC. ENGRAVING 

OF    BELL    GLASS   FOR    AMATEURS. 

There  are  few  plants  that  add  more  beauty  to  the 
amateur's  conservatory  than  grafted  Azaleas,  with  heads  of 
perhaps  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  on  a  bare  stem  twelve  to 
fifteen  inches  from  the  pot,  or  those  that  are  grown  from 
cuttings  which  will  be  low  and  bushy  from  the  pot  up, 
covered  so  profusely  with  flowers  that  the  foliage  is  scarcely 
seen. 

I  cannot  understand  why  it  is,  that  among  so  many 
amateur  growers,  and  those  who  have  private  greenhouses, 
there  are  so  few  who  have  shown  a  preference  for  some  of 
the  improved  varieties  of  this  plant. 

The  old  Phoenicia,  a  miserable  common  purple,  and 
many  others  just  as  worthless,  will  be  found  in  almost  every 
greenhouse. 

Azaleas  are  not  difficult  to  propagate  or  grow,  neither 
is  the  price  high,  considering  the  time  and  care  bestowed 
upon  them  by  the  grower. 

Blooming  plants  can  be  bought  at  any  establishment, 
for  from  fifty  cents  and  upwards,  according  to  the  size. 

A  plant  from  three  to  five  years  old,  with  fine  heads, 
and  such  that  will  produce  one  hundred  or  more  flowers, 
will  cost  from  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  three  dollars 
each,  or  fifteen  to  twenty  dollars  a  dozen.  Plants  this  size 
will  be  very  ornamental  to  the  conservatory. 

66 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  67 

In  many  collections,  where  this  plant  is  not  grown  for 
profit,  will  be  found  not  only  miserable  varieties,  but  often 
long,  straggling  looking  plants  of  some  of  the  more  im- 
proved kinds,  that  have  become  so  through  neglect  to  prune. 
These  can  be  gotten  in  shape  by  using  the  knife  freely,  just 
after  they  have  flowered.  They  will  form  new  shoots  from 
both  the  old  and  young  wood. 

Trim  the  worthless  kind,  in  any  collection,  up  to  one 
straight  stem,  and,  during  the  months  of  July  and  August, 
inarch  some  of  the  more  improved  kinds  on  them,  and  in 
two  or  three  years  you  will  have  a  fine  variety  with  good 
heads. 

Former  chapters  will  show  how  amateurs  should  graft, 
also  ho\v  to  grow  the  cuttings  for  stocks. 

When  there  is  a  limited  quantity  to  be  grafted,  use  a 
bell  glass  in  place  of  a  frame,  as  figure  30  represents.  This 
glass  will  accommodate  twelve  grafted  plants ;  the  stocks 
are  one  year  old  in  two-inch  pots. 

Use  only  the  tip  ends  of  the  shoots  for  grafts,  and  also 
the  tip  ends  of  the  stock  where  the  graft  is  to  be  inserted. 
The  engraving  in  the  chapter  on 
grafting    will    show  how  to  cut  and 
bandage. 

It  will  be  only  a  few  days  before 
they  unite,  and  in  three  or  four  weeks 
the  bell  glass  can  be  removed.  About 
the  third  week  give  some  air  to  harden 
the  young  grafts,  so  that  they  will  not 

Fig.  30-  wjit  when  the  covering  is  taken  off. 

Bell  glass  with  grafted  . 

plants.  Grafting     will     be     found     very 


68  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

interesting  for  amateur  cultivators  of  this  plant,  the  work 
is  so  easily  performed,  and  with  good  success. 

Three  or  four  days'  time  will  decide  whether  they  are 
going  to  unite.  Do  not  forget  that  the  younger  both  the 
graft  and  the  stock  is,  the  more  successful  you  will  be. 
After  the  plants  are  grafted  the  stocks  will  throw  out  shoots 
below  the  graft ;  rub  these  off,  and  allow  nothing  to  grow 
but  the  newly-inserted  graft.  One  year  old  healthy  stocks 
are  the  most  suitable  to  use  for  grafting.  Do  not  attempt 
to  graft  old  plants.  It  can  be  done,  but  it  will  be  better  to 
allow  experienced  growers  to  do  it.  Amateurs  had  better 
work  old  plants  by  inarching. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

INAKCHINGt       THE       AZALEA TIME       FOR       PERFORMING       THIS 

WORK. 

Growers  of  late  years  seldom  practice  inarching,  unless 
they  have  some  inferior  varieties  which  are  too  large  to  use 
as  stock  on  which  to  graft.  They  then  resort  to  this  means 
of  working  an  improved  kind  upon  them. 

I  presume  all  persons  who  have  this  work,  also  have 
Practical  Camellia  Culture,  which  will  give  all  necessary 
engravings,  &c.,  showing  how  to  cut,  bandage,  &c. 

Inarching  the  Azalea  is  done  in  every  way  like  that  of 
the  Camellia  but  it  will  unite  and  knit  together  in  four 
weeks  ;  the  Camellia  will  take  two  weeks  longer. 

The  only  objection  I  have  to  inarching  this  plant  is  that 
it  has  to  be  done  inside  the  greenhouse,  during  the  hot 
months  of  July  and  August,  to  make  it  a  success.  Great 
care  must  be  given  them. 

The  foliage  must  be  dampened  often  to  keep  red  spider 
from  infecting  them,  as  it  would  be  some  time  before  you 
could  rid  the  newly  inarched  plants  of  this  pest. 

It  is  more  profitable  to  grow  the  young  stocks  and 
graft,  than  to  waste  time  and  labor  in  inarching  the  old 
plants  of  Azaleas. 

The  amateur  cultivator  may  be  more  successful  in 
inarching  than  he  would  be  in  grafting. 

I  have  not  practiced  inarching  for  many  years.  Grow- 
ing from  cuttings  and  grafting  have  been  my  methods 
for  increasing  this  plant,  and  I  advise  all  others  to  adopt 
the  same.  69 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

AZALEAS  FROM  SEED.- — GENERAL  TREATMENT  FOR  THE  SEED- 
LING PLANTS. 

I  have  given  the  different  methods  for  increasing  the 
Azalea  by  cuttings,  grafting,  and  inarching.  I  will  now 
give  the  process  of  producing  the  seedlings. 

Most  of  the  new  varieties  of  all  plants  are  produced 
from  seed,  but  there  are  many  new  varieties  of  the  Azalea 
which  have  originated  from  sports  (of  which  I  will  give  an 
account  in  the  following  chapter). 

If  you  wish  to  grow  from  seed,  which  is  easily  done, 
first  save  the  seed  from,  the  best  varieties  only,  and  from 
the  flowers  that  have  been  fertilized  with  the  pollen  of  some 
other  good  kind.  Let  the  seed  be  only  from  good,  strong, 
robust  varieties,  and  those  which  produce  good  flowers,  that 
the  young  progeny  may  have  a  good  constitution. 

In  growing  seedlings,  every  one  has  some  expectation 
of  getting  something  new  and  distinct  from  all  others. 

Those  plants  from  which  seeds  are  to  be  produced  should 
not  be  syringed  after  they  are  in  flower,  or  when  fertilized 
or  impregnated  with  other  kinds. 

As  soon  as  the  flowers  fade,  the  seed  vessel  will  be 
formed  in  the  calyx  of  the  dead  flower.  It  will  resemble  a 
small  pea.  Quite  a  number  of  seeds  will  be  found  in  this, 
although  it  may  be  four  months,  and  sometimes  longer, 
before  the  seeds  are  ripe  and  fit  to  plant. 

Gather  when  ripe,  and  sow  at  once  in  shallow  pans,  or 

70 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  71 

boxes.  The  seed  being  very  minute,  judgment  must  be 
used  not  to  sow  too  deep,  also  be  careful  that  the  seed  is 
not  floated  away  by  heavy  watering. 

Keep  the  pans  or  boxes  in  a  house  with  moist  heat. 
Never  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry.  Cover  them  with 
panes  of  glass,  which  remove  when  you  see  the  seedlings 
making  their  appearance,  or  they  will  damp  and  mould 
away. 

When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle,  pick 
them  out  of  the  pans,  give  them  new  pans  and  fresh 
soil.  After  this  they  can  be  removed  to  pots,  and  treated 
the  same  as  cuttings  of  the  same  age. 

The  third  year  most  of  the  seedlings  will  bloom. 
Among  them  may  be  found  some  new  and  valuable  varie- 
ties. 

I  do  not  practice  growing  this  plant  from  seed,  nor  do  I 
advise  others  to  do  so.  I  prefer  giving  this  privilege  to 
European  growers,  purchasing  the  good  kinds  from  them 
after  they  are  named,  and  the  worthless  kinds  have  been 
picked  out. 

The  worthless  kinds  generally  predominate  in  a  lot  of 
seedlings. 

In  raising  seedlings,  many  suppose  they  will  get  all 
good  kinds,  but  such  is  not  the  case.  You  are  apt  to  get  a 
great  many  inferior  sorts.  You  are  fortunate  if  you  get 
one  good  distinct  kind  from  one  hundred  seedlings.  If  the 
precautions  are  taken  to  fertilize  one  good  kind  with 
another,  many  good  varieties  worth  growing  may  be  se- 
cured, but  a  few  only  can  be  named,  as  they  will  be  found  to 
be  similar  to  .many  varieties  already  established  and 
named. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

AZALEA  SPORTS. WHY  THEY  SHOULD  NOT  BE  ENCOURAGED. 

Those  who  are  familiar  with  growing  the  Azalea  are 
aware  that  many  of  our  new  and  best  varieties  have  not 
been  produced  by  the  ordinary  way  of  procuring  them, 
which  is  from  seed.  Many  of  the  new,  best,  and  most 
distinct  kinds  have  appeared  as  sports. 

A  named  or  established  variety  often  produces  here  and 
there  a  type  on  one  branch  entirely  different  from  tho 
original  flowers,  and  when  this  branch  is  taken  from  an 
established  kind  of  Azalea  and  propagated,  it  generally 
holds  good. 

This  is  unlike  many  sports  of  plants  of  a  different 
character. 

By  this  means  many,  and  I  may  say  most  of  the  new 
varieties  have  been  produced,  instead  of  from  seed,  as  in 
the  way  of  producing  new  varieties  of  most  other  plants. 

Amateurs,  or  those  who  cultivate  this  plant  for  its 
beauty  while  in  flower,  will,  T  have  no  doubt,  be  very  much 
pleased  when  they  find  two  or  three  differ;  nt  kinds  of 
flowers  on  the  same  plant,  which  are  entirely  distinct  from 
the  established  kind  and  the  one  which  they  purchased. 
The  majority  of  the  flowers,  though,  will  be  the  same  as  the 
established  variety. 

These  sports  seldom  appear  on  small  plants. 

The  sporting  of  Azaleas  cause  the  growers  much  annoy- 
ance, and  is  considered  a  bad  feature  in  the  plant. 

72 


AZA.LEA.    CULTURE.  73 

We  will  take,  for  instance,  the  established  variety  named 
Admiration.  If  the  old  stock  plant  is  not  watched  when  in 
flower,  and  the  sporting  branches  cut  away,  from  this  one 
kind  will  be  propagated  four  other  distinct  sorts. 

I  have  noticed  the  following  kinds  on  Admiration  :  Glory 
of  Belgium,  Criterion,  Marginata,  and  Iveryana,  or  others 
similar  to  those  named.  By  this  way  it  is  with 
difficulty  that  the  grower  can  keep  his  stock  genuine. 
Great  care  must  be  exercised  to  remove  the  sports,  being 
careful  to  watch  the  plant  when  in  bloom. 

The  variety  named  Barckleyana  has  produced  from 
sports  over  twenty  kinds.  Had  all  these  sports  been  of  a 
better  variety  than  the  established  one,  it  would  not 
cause  so  much  annoyance.  The  sports  are  often  very 
inferior.  Therefore  I  am  one,  with  many  other  growers, 
that  do  not  like  to  see  this  freak  in  this  greatly  admired 
plant. 

Watch  the  plant  closely  when  in  flower,  especially  those 
kinds  from  which  the  stock  is  grown. 

As  soon  as  they  are  seen  giving  to  a  sport,  immediately 
take  the  whole  branch  or  twig  out.  This  is  the  only  means 
of  keeping  the  stock  true  to  the  established  kind. 

All  growers  are  careful  to  have  the  stock  plants  true  to 
name,  and  without  the  precautions  are  taken  which  have 
been  given,  the  stock  of  Azaleas  cannot  be  relied  upon. 

I  will  here  give  another  instance  of  its  sporting  qualities. 
Azalea  Variegata  is  a  variegated  flower,  or  pink  margined, 
or  blotched  white,  or  of  several  colors,  and  also  one  of  the 
first  of  our  Chinese  varieties. 


74  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

Lateritia,  which  is  a  regular  brick  dust  color,  will  ofcen 
be  found  on  it. 

We  propagate  this  and  send  it  out  under  the  name  of 
Variegata. 

The  purchaser  may  think,  if  he  does  not  say,  that  we 
send  out  spurious  kinds,  or  those  not  true  to  name.  When 
they  order  Azalea  Variegata  they  do  not  want  it  to  turn 
out  Azalea  Lateritia,  a  brick  dust  color. 

The  grower  in  this  way  often  gets  a  bad  name  when  he 
is  not  deserving  of  it. 

This  chapter  will  show  why  I  do  not  like  sports  on  the 
Azalea,  and  at  the  same  time  explains  to  the  purchaser  why 
he  sometimes  gets  a  different  color  from  the  one  he  ordered. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

AZALEAS    FOR    THE   AMATEURS    OR    THOSE    WHO    HAVE    A   SMALL 
COLLECTION. TREATMENT   FOB    THE    SAME. 

There  are  few  plants  grown  that  are  more  worthy  of  a 
place  in  the  amateur's  collection  than  the  Azalea,  for  orna- 
menting and  beautifying  the  greenhouse.  Its  brilliancy  of 
color  and  markings,  with  many  delicate  shades  of  flowers, 
and  also  blooming,  as  it  does  with  ordinary  treatment,  from 
December  to  June,  renders  it  a  universal  favorite. 

There  are  but  few  hard- wooded  plants  which  the  amateur 
can  grow  and  bloom  with  as  much  satisfaction  as  the 
Azalea. 

They  are  capable  of  enduring  a  high  and  intense  heat 
without  injury,  if  they  are  syringed  twice  a  day,  or  this 
plant  can  be  grown  in  a  house  where  the  thermometer  does 
not  fall  below  forty.  In  this  temperature  they  can  be  made 
to  bloom  abundantly. 

Do  not  crowd  the  plants. 

Give  plenty  of  light  and  air  on  all  sides. 

Those  which  are  grown  with  a  variety  of  plants,  and  at 
a  high  temperature,  will  need  their  foliage  dampened  often. 
They  will  bloom  during  January  and  February. 

Those  which  have  been  kept  cool  will  bloom  during 
•March  and  April.  Manage  the  plants  so  as  to  have  a  suc- 
cession of  flowers  from  November  until  May.  (See  previous 
chapters  for  fuller  directions.) 

Look  over  the  stock  when  through  flowering,  re-pot  all 

75 


70  AZALEA.   CULTURE. 

those  whose  roots  have  extended  to  the  sides  of  the  pots, 
and  those  which  are  in  an  unhealthy  condition,  or  with  soil 
sour,  reduce  the  ball  of  earth.  Give  fresh  drainage,  and 
place  back  in  a  smaller  pot  or  tub.  Encourage  them 
to  make  new  roots.  Prune  the  tops  well  back. 

Use  the  knife  freely.  Cut  old  or  young  wood  away, 
and  get  the  plants  shapely. 

Old  plants  will  not  need  re-potting  more  than  once  in 
two  or  three  years.  See  that  the  drainage  is  good,  so  the 
water  may  pass  off  from  the  roots. 

Examine  every  plant  when  through  flowering.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  take  them  all  out  of  the  pots  or  tubs.  The 
tops  of  the  plants  will  usually  tell  what  they  need. 

When  re-potting  much  twiggy  and  weak  wood  will  be 
found  in  the  center  of  the  plants.  All  such  cut  away  ;  it  is 
only  robbing  the  good  shoots  of  the  nourishment  they  require. 

Syringe  the  plants  twice  a  day  during  the  months  of 
March  and  April.  Remove  them  from  the  greenhouse  to 
the  open  air  as  early  in  May  as  is  practicable. 

Do  not  place  them  under  trees,  as  the  drip  therefrom  is 
very  injurious,  and  will  cause  them  to  be  covered  with  red 
spider  in  the  fall.  Remove  them  from  the  house  on  a  rainy 
day,  so  there  will  be  no  danger  of  the  sun  burning  the 
foliage. 

Plunge  the  pots  in  s;md  to  keep  the  roots  cool. 

Do  not  plunge  the  pots  into  the  earth,  and  more 
especially  hard-wooded  plants,  or  those  which  are  only 
re-potted  once  in  a  long  time,  as  the  earth  soil  becomes  full 
of  worms,  causing  the  soil  to  sour  and  the  plants  to  lose 
their  roots; 


AZALEA    CULTUR 


Worms  will  not  work  in  sand. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  give  the  plants  shade  ;  they  can  be 
placed  in  the  sun  without  injury. 

Follow  the  directions  for  syringing  the  foliage  of  the 
plants  which  are  outside  in  summer,  and  they  will  be 
greatly  benefit  3d. 

All  plants  that  do  not  need  re-potting,  take  one  inch  of 
soil  from  the  top  of  the  ball,  replenishing  it  with  fresh  soil. 
This  is  what  is  termed  by  florists  top  dressing  the  plant 
without  removing  it  from  the  pot  or  tub. 

Remove  the  plants  to  the  greenhouse  about  the  middle 
of  September,  before  there  is  any  danger  of  frost.  See 
that  they  are  free  from  all  insects,  and  all  dead  leaves 
pinched  off.  After  they  are  placed  in  the  house,  give  every 
plant  a  good  watering  with  lime  water,  which  will  kill  all 
worms  and  keep  the  ground  sweet. 

Keep  the  glass  shaded  during  the  months  of  March  and 
April,  to  prevent  the  foliage  from  burning.  Use  a  wash 
for  shading  the  glass  composed  of  the  following  :  —  One  gal- 
lon of  turpentine,  one  pint  of  boiled  linseed  oil,  well  mixed. 
It  can  be  applied  to  the  glass  with  an  ordinary  paint  or 
whitewash  brush. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

AZALEAS    FOB    WINDOW    CULTURE. THE    PROPER  TEMPERATURE 

REQUIRED. — ENGRAVING  OF  AN    ELASTIC    SPRINKLER.  —  EN- 
GRAVING   OF  COAL    OIL    STOVE    FOR  SMALL  CONSERVATORY. 

I  have  frequent  inquiries  from  correspondents ;  will  the 
Azalea  do  for  windows  or  house  culture  1 

I  know  of  no  plant  more  beautiful  for  window  decoration 
than  the  Azalea  is  when  in  full  bloom. 

The  success  with  this  plant  is  much  better  than  that  of 
the  Camellia.  It  will  stand  a  great  amount  of  heat,  but 
at  the  same  time  a  moist  atmosphere  is  necessary  for  it. 

Dampening  the  foliage  three  times  a  day  will  give  all 
the  moisture  that  is  necessary. 

There  will  be  very  little  trouble  in  growing  or  flower- 
ing this  plant  in  a  window  that  is  inclosed. 

I  would  advise  those  who  grow  these  plants  in  windows, 
to  keep  them  at  a  temperature  of  from  fifty  to  fifty-five 
degrees,  and  the  plants  will  come  into  bloom  during 
February. 

Those  grown  with  extra  heat  will  require  double  tho 
amount  of  care  and  attention  than  those  that  are  grown 
in  a  low  temperature. 

All  plants  do  best,  and  are  healthier,  that  get  but  little 
artificial  heat. 


78 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


79 


In  fine  weather  air  the  plants  freely. 
If  intended  to  grow  in  the  windows,  do  not  remove  them 
to  the  house  until  late  in  the  fall,  or  just  before  frost. 
Place  them  outside  early  in  the  spring.  About  once  a 
month  take  the  plants  from  the  window  and  dip  their  heads 
into  a  solution  of  the  following  wash  : — 8  gallons  of  soap 
suds,  £  Ib.  of  sulphur,  and  a  little  soft  soap,  well  mixed 
together.  After  being  dipped  into  this  solution,  a  soapy 

gloss  will  cling  to 
the  foliage,  which 
will  not  be  objec- 
tionable. Syringing 
with  clean  water 
will  remove  most  of 
the  insects  that  in- 
fest this  plant. 

Figure  31  repre- 
sents an  elastic  plant 
sprinkler,         which 
every  lover  of  plants 
Fig.  31.  should       have       to 

Elastic  Sprinkler.  syringe  or  dampen 

the  foliage.     They  can  be  had  of  any  seedsman  or  florist, 
the  cost  being  $1.25,  postpaid. 

For  heating  a  bay  window,  use  a  coal  oil  stove,  from 
which  there  is  no  smoke  or  gas.  The  style  of  such  a  stove 
will  be  seen  represented  in  figure  32.  Place  a  pan  of  water 
on  the  top  to  create  a  moisture,  which  will  be  beneficial  to 
the  plants. 


80 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


The  price  of  such  a  stove  is  from  six   to   eight  dollars, 
and  can  be  had  from  any  seedsman. 


Fig.  32. 
Coal  Oil  Stove. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

SOIL    BEST    ADAPTED    FOR     THE     GROWTH    OF    THE    AZALEA. 

For  the  Azalea  use  equal  parts  of  loam  and  peat  soil, 
well  mixed  and  broken  with  the  spade,  but  not  sieved. 

I  prefer  a  good,  light,  fibrous  loam,  which  can  be  obtained 
from  the  hills  and  fence  corners.  My  sod  is  cut  during 
the  spring  and  summer,  placed  in  a  heap,  with  grass  side 
down,  and  in  a  few  weeks  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Peat  is  a  black,  sandy  soil,  and  consists  of  decayed 
leaves,  roots,  and  sand.  I  prefer  that  which  is  full  of  fibrous 
roots.  This  is  cut  in  sods  like  that  of  the  loam,  but  will  take 
a  much  longer  time  to  decay. 

I  get  this  soil  in  close  proximity  to  my  place,  and  where 
the  wild  Azalea  abounds.  It  is  better  known  by  the  name 
of  swamp  honeysuckle. 

Had  I  to  procure  my  peat  soil,  like  many  do  that  send 
from  two  to  five  hundred  miles,  and  some  from  the  Pacific 
slope,  I  would,  undoubtedly,  do  without  this  particular  kind 
of  soil. 

I  am  not  an  advocate  for  different  soils,  and  so  many 
mixtures,  as  many  recommend. 

Use  a  light  and  fibrous  loam  ;  always  guard  against  a 
heavy,  clayey  soil. 

For  all  plants  that  I  grow,  the  soil  comes  from  one  heap, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Daphne,  Palm,  Erica,  and 
Azalea,  and  had  I  not  the  peat  so  convenient,  they  would  be 
grown  in  the  same  soil  with  a  little  sand  added. 

4*  81 


82  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

Especially  for  the  Azalea,  if  you  have  not  peat  soil,  use 
leaf  mould  with  some  sand  added.  Where  le.if  mould  is 
not  to  be  had,  use  one- third  sand  with  loam. 

Soil  is  often  blamed  for  not  growing  good  plants,  when 
the  fault  is  with  the  grower  for  not  ventilating  and  syring- 
ing properly. 

Why  do  so  many  Azaleas  perish  in  the  hands  of  ama- 
teurs, and  why  are  they  so  unsuccessful  with  the  cuttings  of 
this  plant  ?  Nine-tenths  of  the  Azalea  cuttings  and  plants 
die  from  neglect  to  syringe  properly.  Red  spider  is  the 
whole  cause  of  the  failure.  Sand  and  soil  are  seldom  in 
fault. 

With  me  the  Azalea  and  Camellia  cuttings  are  the 
easiest  to  grow  of  my  stock,  requiring  less  attention  than 
many  of  the  soft  wooded  class  of  plants. 

My  advice  to  the  inexperienced  is,  pay  less  attention  to 
the  mixtures  of  soil,  and  more  to  airing  and  syringing,  and 
your  success  will  be  much  better. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

LIQUID   MANURE,    LIME    WATER,    ETC.,    FOR    THE    AZALEA. 

If  you  wish  to  be  a  successful  cultivator  of  this  plant, 
never  use  stimulants  of  any  kind,  such  as  liquid  manures, 
fertilizers,  &c.  I  find  them  in  no  way  beneficial.  Give 
plenty  of  clean  water  to  the  roots  when  dry,  and  with 
frequent  syringing  over  head,  they  can  be  grown  to  perfec- 
tion. 

Give  this  plant,  or  the  Camellia,  liquid  manure  water, 
and  it  will  cause  them  to  make  rapid  growth.  They  will 
grow  when  they  should  be  forming  buds.  Plants  which 
are  grown  in  this  way  will  not  have  strength  enough  to 
hold  up  their  own  foliage  without  the  aid  of  stakes. 

Both  the  Azalea  and  Camellia  should  be  grown  so 
as  not  to  require  any  artificial  support. 

Lime  water  is  beneficial  for  this,  as  well  as  all  other 
plants  which  are  only  re-potted  once  a  year,  and  many  only 
once  in  three  and  five  years. 

The  soil  often  becomes  sour  from  worms,  caused  by 
over-watering  or  imperfect  drainage 

Plants  will  not  thrive  in  such  soil.  Their  roots  will 
soon  decay,  and  the  tops  will  soon  follow,  and  they  will 
have  a  yellow  and  sickly  appearance. 

To  keep  the  ground  sweet  and  free  from  worms,  water 
three  times  a  year  with  lime  water.  Give  the  plant 
sufficient  to  wet  every  root  and  fiber,  and  the  hard-wooded 
plants  will  be  in  a  good  condition.  Syringe  the  foliage  four 

83 


84 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


times  a  year  with  this   water,  and  it  will  rid  it  of  many 
insects. 

Receipt  for  lime  water: — Take  a  flour  barrel  full  of 
water,  add  to  this  one  peck  of  lime.  It  will  be  ready  for 
use  in  ten  hours,  or  as  soon  as  the  water  becomes  cool  and 
clear. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

SAND    FOB    ROOTING    CUTTINGS. 

There  are  many  opinions  as  regards  sand  for  rooting 
cuttings.  Some  prefer  white  to  black,  others  river  or  washed 
sand,  and  many  must  have  charcoal  dust.  All  failures  to 
root  the  cutting  are  attributed  to  the  color  of  the  sand. 

Twenty  years  ago  the  washed  sand  was  used  by  many. 
Why  it  was  used  I  am  at  a  loss  to  say,  unless  it  was  washed 
to  clear  it  of  some  poisonous  mineral  or  quality  which 
prevented  the  cuttings  from  rooting. 

I  have,  at  times,  a  bench  of  well-rooted  cuttings,  and 
occasionally  have  one  that  is  not  so  good.  I  never  think 
of  attributing  the  success  or  failure  to  the  sand.  Have  often 
heard  the  remark  made  by  visitors,  there  can  be  no  trouble 
rooting  cuttings  in  such  beautiful  white  sand. 

Some  years  ago,  when  looking  through  florist  establish- 
ments further  north,  I  saw  benches  of  well-rooted  cuttings 
in  sand  much  darker  than  that  which  is*found  here.  I,  like 
many  others,  gave  the  sand  the  credit  for  the  success. 

Long  since  that  time,  I  have  given  up  all  such  ideas, 
believing  that  cuttings  can  be  grown  as  well  in  one  colored 
sand  as  another. 

There  is  no  virtue  in  the  color  of  the  sand.  It  is  merely 
cooling  to  the  wound  of  the  cutting,  and  will  cause  it  to 
heal  and  a  callous  will  form  earlier  than  if  placed  in  soil. 

As  soon  as  the  cutting  is  rooted  it  should  be  removed 

85 


86  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

from  the  sand,  as  there  is  nothing  in  the  sand  to  strengthen 
or  stimulate  the  young  plant. 

The  failure  to  root  the  cutting  is  more  often  the  fault  of 
the  propagator.  A  branch  cut  from  a  plant  cannot  be 
placed  in  the  sand  bed  and  form  roots  without  receiving 
some  attention. 

The  sand  should  be  clean  and  firmly  pressed. 

The  cuttings  require  water,  shading,  airing,  and  syring- 
ing, and  for  the  first  few  days  or  until  they  show  signs 
of  recovering,  they  will  need  extra  attention. 

Never  attribute  the  failure  to  root  cuttings  to  the  color 
of  the  sand. 

Cleanliness  of  the  cutting  bed  will  add  greatly  to  the 
health  of  the  cuttings, 

Sand  which  has  been  used  constantly  for  six  or  twelve 
months  will  become  dirty  from  decayed  leaves,  &c.,  and 
will  cause  a  fungus  to  grow  over  the  sand  bed,  which  will 
destroy  the  cuttings  if  it  is  not  renewed. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

DRAINAGE  FOR  LARGE  PLANTS. 

For  large  plants  of  Azaleas  and  Camellias,  and  others 
of  the  hard  wood  kind  that  require  large  pots  or  tubs,  and 
are  not  changed  or  re-potted  every  season,  drainage  is  very 
necessary.  Without  it  the  ground  would  become  sour  by 
the  outlet  clogging  up,  preventing  the  water,  which  the 
plants  do  not  need,  from  passing  off,  and  causing  the  roots 
of  large  plants  to  decay. 

I  never  use  drainage  for  soft-wooded  plants,  or  for  small 
pots  of  the  hard  wood  kind,  considering  it  a  waste  of  time. 
Use  drainage  for  all  hard- wooded  plants  in  pots  over  eight 
inches. 

Drainage  is  thought  by  some  a  work  which  can  be 
carelessly  done,  and  have  the  desired  effect.  I  differ  very 
much  in  this  particular,  thinking  it  a  very  important  matter, 
and  one  that  should  be  done  with  some  care,  in  the  follow- 
ing manner.  Use  a  large  piece  of  broken  pot  or  shell  over 
the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  with  smaller  pieces  over 
this,  finishing  up  with  still  smaller  pieces  of  shells  or  pots, 
with  a  covering  of  moss  to  prevent  the  soil  from  mixing 
with  the  drainage. 

In  looking  over  my  stock  I  find  more  plants  that  require 
fresh  drainage  than  larger  pots. 

Imperfect  drainage  of  those  plants  in  large  pots  or  tubs 
that  have  been  thoroughly  saturated  with  water,  will  easily 
be  detected  by  the  water  remaining  on  the  surface  of  the 

87 


88 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


ground,  and  not  passing  to  the  roots,  or  running  off  as  it 
should. 

All  such  plants  should  be  removed  at  once  from  the  pot 
and  allowed  to  dry  for  ten  hours,  when  they  can  be  replaced 
in  the  pot  with  fresh  drainage. 

Should  such  plants  be  allowed  to  remain  any  length  of 
time  in  imperfect  drainage,  they  will  lose  their  roots,  and 
in  a  short  time  die. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

ON  INSECTS    THAT    INFEST    AZALEAS. RED    SPIDER,  MEALY  BUG, 

ETC. ENGRAVING    OF    FLORAL    ATOMIZER. 

There  is  no  reason  why  red  spider  should  be  allowed  to 
destroy  the  fresh  greenness  of  the  leaves  of  the  Azalea,  if 
the  directions  have  been  followed  for  syringing  the 
foliage. 

Insects  are  the  cause  of  disease,  therefore  watch  the 
plants  closely  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy  condition,  and 
there  will  be  no  fear  of  a  serious  attack  of  any  insect. 

I  find  it  impossible,  with  all  my  care,  to  keep  the  Azalea 
perfectly  clear  of  red  spider  during  the  months  of  March 
and  April,  or  just  before  they  are  removed  from  the  green- 
house to  the  open  air,  during  the  named  months.  I  do  not 
allow  this  pest  to  become  so  numerous  that  either  the  plants 
or  foliage  are  affected  by  it. 

To  prevent  an  increase  of  red  spider,  syringe  thoroughly 
to  create  a  moist  atmosphere. 

Soon  after  being  removed  to  the  open  air,  red  spider 
will  disappear.  Keep  up  the  usual  amount  of  syringing 
with  clean  water  during  the  summer  months,  or  until  the 
dews  are  heavy. 

Red  spider  cannot  exist  in  a  moist  atmosphere,  but  will 
increase  very  rapidly  in  a  hot,  dry,  or  in  an  untidy  house. 

Mealy  bug  will  seldom  be  found  on  the  Azalea,  unless 
syringing  has  been  neglected. 

On  the  old  branches  of  plants  ten  years  and  older, 
will  be  found  a  white  scale,  which  in  looks  resembles  the 

80 


00  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

mealy  bug,  although  it  is  of  an  entirely  different  character. 
It  can  easily  be  detected  by  the  color,  which  is  a  purplish 
white.  It  leaves  no  white  track  behind  it 
like  the  mealy  bug.  This  insect  is  very 
dangerous  when  it  gets  among  the 
Azaleas. 

To  destroy  this  insect  use  coal  oil,  and 
for  distributing  the  oil,  use  the  floral 
Floral  Atomizer,  atomizer,  which  is  represented  in  figure  33. 
This  will  eject  such  a  fine  spray  that  the  plants  will  not 
be  injured  in  any  way  by  the  small  quantity  of  oil  they 
receive.  It  will  rid  the  plants  of  this  insect.  After  this 
treatment  the  Azalea  will  soon  present  a  healthy  appear- 
ance. 

Coal  oil  used  in  any  other  way  than  has  been  directed, 
will  in  all  probability  prove  fatal  to  the  plants. 

If  clean  water  is  used  as  often  and  as  thoroughly  as  has 
been  recommended,  the  plants  will  be  perfectly  healthy  and 
never  infested  with  insects  to  such  an  extent  as  to  require 
syringing  with  preparations  of  any  kind. 

To  prevent  insects  from  spreading  through  the  houses, 
use  the  following  wash  :  —One  peck  of  lime,  a  half  pound 
of  flour  of  sulphur,  stir  well  together,  apply  to  the  pipes 
and  flues  as  you  would  whitewash.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
wash  the  pipes  all  around  the  house.  Wash  around  the 
furnace,  the  middle  and  extreme  ends.  It  is  only  the  fumes 
of  the  sulphur  that  is  wanted. 

This  wash  will  not  injure  the  most  delicate  plant  if  used 
as  directed.  Never  use  dry  sulphur  on  the  pipes  or  flues,  as 
recommended  by  some.  It  will  prove  fatal  to  the  whole 
stock. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

HOUSE    SUITABLE    FOR    AZALEA    CULTURE. 

Any  glass  structure  will  be  suitable  to  grow  this  plant, 
although  some  particular  styles  are  better  adapted  than 
others. 

\\hen  building,  we  all  have  some  object  in  view, 
and  are  guided  in  the  kind  of  a  structure  by  what  we  want 
to  grow  in  it. 

For  Azaleas,  Camellias,  and  all  hard-wooded  and  speci- 
men plants  which  are  not  of  rapid  growth,  I  prefer  a  span 
roof  houso,  as  represented  in  figure  34.  The  plants  that 


Fig-  34- 
House  suitable  for  Azaleas. 

I  have  named  only  grow  from  six  weeks  to  two  months  in 
the  spring.  By  being  grown  in  this  kind  of  a  house  they 
are  well  shaped.  In  a  lean-to  house,  hard-wooded  plants 
usually  grow  one-sided,  unless  they  are  turned  very 
often. 

Azaleas  and  Camellias  flourish  well  together.     The  same 

91 


92  AZALEA  CULTURE. 

temperature  will  do  for  both.  They  also  require  a  moist 
atmosphere.  Azaleas  which  are  grown  in  the  same  temper- 
ature as  Camellias,  will  not  come  into  bloom  before  the 
months  of  February  and  March. 

The  house  shown  in  the  engraving  will  answer  for 
other  plants  besides  those  mentioned,  always  using  the 
coolest  part  of  the  house  for  Azaleas  and  Camellias. 

Syringe  frequently.  Moisture  will  improve  the  appear- 
ance and  health  of  the  plants. 

For  heating  such  a  house,  use  a  boiler  and  hot  water 
pipes.  The  first  outlay  is  but  a  trifle  more  than  that  of  the 
brick  flue  system.  The  plants  will  be  in  a  much  better 
condition,  and  more  easily  kept  in  health. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

TWO    GREENHOUSE     AZALEAS     WHICH     HAVE      PROVED      TO      BE 
HARDY. 

The  Azaleas  Indica  Alba  and  Amoena  have  both  proved 
to  be  perfectly  hardy.  They  will  stand  in  open  borders 
without  any  protection,  during  our  most  severe  winters, 
and  will  also  stand  the  hot  scorching  sun  of  our  summers. 
These  are  very  unlike  the  hardy  Rhododendron  and  Azalea 
Mollis,  both  of  which  require  shade,  and  are  generally 
found  in  this  climate  planted  among  the  shade  of  trees. 

Indica  Alba  is  grown  to  a  great  extent  in  the  parks  and 
cemeteries  around  New  York,  and  retains  its  foliage  during 
winter,  blooming  through  the  months  of  May  and  June,  a 
perfect  sheet  of  white  flowers.  It  is  a  valuable  acquisition 
to  the  list  of  hardy  white  flowering  shrubs. 

Azalea  Amoena  has  also  proved  hardy,  and  is  grown  in 
open  borders  in  parks,  both  in  the  north  and  south.  Like 
Indica  Alba  it  retains  its  foliage  during  the  winter  months. 

The  flowers  are  small,  double,  rosy  purple,  and  bloom  in 
early  spring.  These  will  be  found  admirably  adapted  for 
making  clumps  on  lawns,  or  for  borders,  &c. 

Where  beds  are  planted  exclusively  of  these  two 
kinds,  Alba  should  be  placed  in  the  centre,  and  Amoena 
on  the  outer  edges,  as  it  is  of  a  more  dwarf  habit.  By  so 
massing  them  there  will  be  in  the  same  bed  both  white  and 
rosy  purple. 


94  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

For  the  culture  of  the  Azalea  in  the  open  air,  use  any 
good  garden  soil  with  a  light  mixture  of  sand. 

Have  the  beds  rather  elevated  or  mounded  up,  so  that 
the  water  will  not  lodge  about  the  roots  during  the  winter 
months. 

As  soon  as  the  bloom  is  over  in  the  spring,  trim  the 
plants,  cutting  back  all  long  branches. 

Keep  the  plants  shapely  by  using  the  knife  freely. 

Cut  out  all  small  twiggy  wood :  they  are  only  robbing 
the  strong  shoots  of  the  nourishment  they  require. 

The  small  wood  in  the  centre  of  the  plant  produces  no 
flowers,  therefore  it  is  of  no  benefit. 

Treated  in  the  way  mentioned  they  will  be  an  ornament 
to  any  grounds,  and  I  think  preferable  to  either  the  Rhodo- 
dendrons or  Mollis  Azalea.  Neither  of  these  will  stand 
the  summer  sun,  but  will  grow  best  in  a  thicket. 

Hardy  plants  which  I  consider  valuable  are  those  which 
thrive  on  an  open  lawn,  where  their  beauty  can  be  seen 
when  in  flower. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THIRTY    NAMED    AZALEAS    OF    BEST    AND    DISTINCT    KINDS. 

Thirty  named  Azaleas — twenty  single  and  ten  double 
kinds  : 

These  I  consider  distinct,  being  chosen  from  two  hun- 
dred kinds. 

Indica  Alba — Single,  white. 

Baron  de  Vriere — Salmon  rose,  dark  spots,  fine  flower. 

Beauty  of  Europe — Pink,  striped  with  carmine. 

Bijou  de  Paris — ^White ,  striped  rose. 

Charles  Van  Eckhaute — Bright  orange,  spotted,  crimped 
edges. 

Crimeria — Rich  crimson. 

Coloris  Nova — Dark  carmine  with  rich  dark  spots. 

Eulalie  Van  Ghert — Light  rose,  spotted  with  carmine. 

Frostii — Violet  pink. 

Fielder's  White — Fine  large  flower. 

Glory  of  Belgium — White,  striped  with  pink,  fringed 
edges.     . 

Hortense  Vervaene — Pale  flesh  color,  bordered  salmon, 
vermillion  spots. 

Iveryana — White,  striped  and  spotted. 

John  Gould  Veitch — Lilac  rose. 

Madame  Ambroise  Verschaffeltii. 

Marquis  of  Lome — Beautiful  orange. 

Pride  of  Dorking — Vivid  crimson. 

95 


96  AZALEA   CULTURE. 

Punctulate — Creamy  white,  spotted  and  striped  cherry 
red. 

Theodore  Prusser — Deep  rose,  shaded  violet. 
Vesuvius — Large  pale  orange  with  dark  spots. 

TEN  BEST  DOUBLE  AZALEAS,  DISTINCT  KINDS. 
Bernhard  Andre — Violet  crimson. 
Bouquet  de  Roses — Bright  clear  rose. 
Borsig  or  Flag  of  Truce — Both  good  double  whites. 
Francois  de  Vos — Deep  crimson  scarlet. 
Glory  of  Sunninghill — Salmon. 

Jean  Vervane — Semi-double,  crimson,  white  and  rose. 
Madame  Iris  Lefebvre — Dark  orange. 
Mile.  Marie  Van  Houtte — White  and  salmon. 
Rachael  Von  Varnhagan — Rosy  purple. 
Souvenir  de  Prince  Albert — White  and  rose,  deeply 
spotted,  superb. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

ON   AZALEAS    PLANTED     IN     THE     OPEN     GROUND     DURING     THE 
SUMMER    MONTHS. 

During  the  past  year  some  growers  have  been  trying  to 
grow  the  Azalea  after  it  is  one  year  old  from  a  cutting,  by 
planting  them  out  in  beds  during  the  summer  months,  in 
the  same  manner  as  we  would  roses  or  bedding  plants. 
The  result  of  this  new  practice  has  been  very  satisfactory. 

They  have  grown  twice  the  size  of  those  planted  in  pots, 
and  have  produced  buds  which  will,  in  all  probability, 
flower  finely  the  next  season. 

Azalea  Indica  Alba  and  Amoena  have  proved  to  be 
hardy. 

I  do  not  know  of  any  reason  why  other  varieties  would 
not  thrive  equally  as  well  if  planted  outside  during  the 
summer,  although  I  have  never  tried  it  myself.  If  they 
would  thrive,  it  would  be  a  profitable  way  of  growing 
them. 

During  the  next  season  I  expect  to  plant  one  or  two 
thousand  in  open  borders  as  a  test,  and  will  give  the  result 
of  this  practice  in  one  of  our  floral  journals.  If  it  proves  a 
success  it  will  be  a  great  saving  of  labor  over  the  old  pot 
system  of  growing  this  plant. 

For  those  wishing  to  try  this  experiment,  I  would  advise 
them  to  begin  on  a  small  scale.  Should  water  be  con- 
venient syringe  at  night  for  the  first  three  or  four  weeks ; 
at  the  end  of  this  time  the  dews  \vill  be  sufficient,  and  the 
plants  will  have  adhered  to  the  new  soil. 

Plant  in  light,  sandy  soil. 

5  97 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

PACKING    AZALEA    PLANTS    FOR     SHIPMENT. TREATMENT     BEST 

FOR    THEM    AFTER    THEY    ARE    RECEIVED. 

The  wood  of  these  plants  is  very  brittle,  therefore  some 
care  must  be  exercised  in  packing  them. 

From  the  first  of  June  until  the  latter  part  of  Septem- 
ber, pack  in  open  boxes  as  you  would  any  other  plants,  and 
with  or  without  the  pots.  Although  those  packed  without 
pots  will  carry  in  a  much  better  condition,  providing  the 
roots  are  in  sufficient  number  to  keep  the  ball  of  earth 
together.  The  freight  or  express  charges  will  be  much  less, 
which  is  quite  an  item. 

After  the  plants  are  removed  from  the  pots,  use  dry 
moss  around  the  ball  of  earth,  then  wrap  only  the  ball  in 
brown  paper.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  the  whole  plant 
covered  with  paper. 

When  plants  of  either  the  Camellia  or  Azalea  are 
received  without  pots  during  the  fall,  or  whenever  the  buds 
are  formed,  place  them  back  in  the  same  or  nearly  the 
same  size  pots  as  they  were  in  before  being  shipped.  A 
larger  size  pot  and  fresh  soil  at  this  time  will  cause  many 
of  them  to  cast  their  buds  and  begin  to  grow.  The  result 
will  be  no  flowers  the  coming  season. 

If  received  in  the  spring  when  the  plants  are  growing, 
or  about  to  show  their  young  growth,  and  the  ball  is  well 
matted  with  roots,  a  size  larger  pot  will  be  necessary,  and 
it  will,  in  fact,  greatly  benefit  the  plants. 

93 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  99 

Should  the  plants  arrive  in  a  very  dry  condition,  which 
is  often  the  case  (after  being  packed  for  twenty  or  thirty 
days),  soak  both  the  ball  of  roots  and  the  tops  in  water  for 
ten  hours,  after  which  place  in  pots,  giving  them  a  shady 
place  for  a  few  days. 

It  will  bo  much  better  to  receive  plants  that  have  suf- 
fered from  drought,  than  those  which  have  had  too  much 
moisture,  for  they  will  become  damp  and  mouldy.  When 
in  this  condition  there  is  no  treatment  known  that  will 
restore  them  to  their  former  health. 

Do  not  disturb  or  unpack  plants  which  are  received  in 
cold  weather  in  a  frozen  state.  Keep  them  in  a  dark  place 
where  the  thermometer  ranges  about  forty-five  degrees, 
until  all  signs  of  frost  have  left  them,  when  they  can  be 
unpacked  and  potted.  Syringe  the  foliage  and  keep  them 
in  a  partially  shaded  place  for  a  few  days  longer,  then  they 
should  be  watered  at  the  roots. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

CALENDAR    FOR    THE    MONTHS. 

January. 

During  this  month  your  plants  will  need  careful  watch- 
ing, as  regards  airing,  watering,  and  syringing.  Generally 
the  weather  is  very  cold,  and  a  greater  amount  of  artificial 
heat  is  necessary  to  keep  the  frost  out  of  the  house.  When 
the  day  is  fine,  admit  a  little  air  between  the  hours  of  11 
a.m.  and  2  p.m. 

Open  the  sash  or  ventilator  according  to  the  temper- 
ature you  have  in  the  house,  although  the  weather  may  be 
cold  and  freezing.  If  the  sun  is  bright,  your  house  may 
mark  one  hundred ;  such  is  too  high  a  temperature.  A 
little  air  can  be  given  without  having  your  plants  chilled. 
Do  not  pull  your  sash  half  way  down  ;  one  or  two  inches 
will  be  of  great  benefit  to  the  plants. 

Never  omit  airing  your  house  in  fine  weather.  Azaleas 
which  are  blooming,  and  kept  at  a  high  temperature,  will 
require  syringing  twice  a  day,  night  and  morning.  Those 
that  are  in  the  cooler  houses  will  require  syringing  once  a 
day,  and  let  it  be  done  during  the  morning. 

Water  all  plants  that  require  it,  and  let  it  be  done  dur- 
ing the  early  part  of  the  day,  that  the  plants  may  absorb 
it  and  become  partially  dry  before  night. 

Keep  all  dead  foliage  from  the  plants.  Water  during 
this  month  once  with  lime  water.  Give  them  enough  to  wet 

100 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  101 

every  root  and  fiber,  and  let  no  plant  escape,  wet  or  dry. 
This  is  done  to  kill  the  worms  and  keep  the  ground  sweet. 

February. 

The  days  will  be  getting  longer,  and  the  sun  more 
powerful. 

Air  your  plants  freely  when  the  day  will  admit.  Many 
will  be  flowering  and  making  young  wood  towards  the  last 
of  the  month. 

Young  stocks  which  were  rooted  last  May  should  now 
be  in  fine  condition  to  graft,  and  should  be  grafted  while  the 
wood  is  young.  The  named  kinds  which  were  rooted  last 
May  will  now  require  one  size  larger  pot,  and  the  tops 
nipped  from  the  young  shoots,  to  cause  them  to  bush. 

Your  grafted  plants  which  were  worked  last  February 
and  March,  will  have  a  great  tendency  again  to  throw  out 
shoots  below  the  graft.  Cut  all  such  off.  Syringe  as  for 
last  month. 

March. 

Air  freely  and  syringe  often.  Towards  the  end  of  this 
month  your  glass  will  need  a  slight  shade  on  it  to  keep  the 
sun  from  burning  the  foliage.  Most  of  your  plants  will  be 
in  full  bloom,  and  making  young  wood.  Give  them  suf- 
ficient water  when  dry  to  wet  them  thoroughly,  but  only 
water  those  that  require  it.  Do  the  balance  of  your  graft, 
ing  this  month,  and  begin  re-potting  those  plants  that 
flowered  last  month. 

Prepare  your  sand  boxes  for  the  cuttings,  and  have 
everything  in  readiness.  Keep  as  little  artificial  heat  this 


102  AZALEA  CULTURE. 

month  as  practicable.  Trim  all  plants  this  month.  Cut 
back  the  long  branches,  and  cut  out  the  twiggy  wood.  Get 
your  plants  shapely.  Water  your  plants  at  this  time  in 
the  afternoon  or  evening. 

April. 

Your  plants,  if  in  health,  should  be  growing  finely,  and 
the  balance  of  your  stock  in  flower.  Give  plenty  of  air 
during  this  month,  also  room  on  the  benches,  that  they  may 
form  well.  Re-pot  balance  of  your  stock  which  was  not 
attended  to  last  month.  Take  cuttings  this  month.  Those 
plants  which  were  grafted  in  February  will  all  be  firmly 
united,  and  the  cord  which  held  the  graft  in  place  should  be 
removed,  and  the  glass  removed  from  the  frame.  Give 
them  one  size  larger  pots.  Rub  all  shoots  off  which  appear 
below  the  graft.  Allow  nothing  to  grow  but  the  newly- 
inserted  graft.  Syringe  twice  a  day.  Red  spider  and 
thrip  will  make  their  appearance,  notwithstanding  all  the 
syringing  and  dampening  of  the  house.  Your  plants  will 
need  more  water  as  the  season  advances.  Look  over  them 
daily. 

May. 

Get  your  plants  to  the  open  air  as  early  as  possible  this 
month,  or  red  spider  and  thrip  will  make  sad  work.  Place 
them  outside,  as  directed  before,  on  a  wet  day,  and  plunge 
the  pots  to  the  rim.  A  shady  place  wrill  not  be  required. 

Your  young  grafted  plants  can  also  be  put  out  in  the 
open  air. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  the  cuttings  which  were 
placed  in  the  sand  first  part  of  April  will  be  rooted,  and 


AZALEA    CULTU 


require  soil  and  pots.  Remove  these  to  frames  as  directed 
elsewhere.  Syringe  all  Azaleas  twice  a  day,  that  are  out- 
side, until  the  night  dews  are  heavy,  when  syringing  can  be 
dispensed  with. 

June,  July  and  August. 

All  your  plants  should  at  this  time  be  in  the  open  air, 
and  the  pots  plunged.  When  the  weather  is  warm,  and 
no  dews  at  night,  syringe  twice  a  day.  Watch  the  young 
grafted  plants,  for  they  will  still  have  a  great  tendency  to 
throw  out  young  shoots  below  the  graft.  Nothing  further 
is  required  during  these  three  months.  Syringe,  water  when 
dry,  and  keep  your  plants  free  from  dead  leaves,  branches, 
&c.,  &c. 

September. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  and  before  the  first 
frost,  have  all  your  plants  brought  to  the  house.  Give 
them  a  light  top  dressing  of  fresh  soil.  See  that  they  are 
clear  of  all  insects.  Give  all  the  plants  a  dose  of  lime 
water  after  removing  them  to  the  house.  Place  your  young 
cuttings  on  benches,  and  as  near  the  glass  as  possible. 
Syringe  once  or  twice  a  day.  Those  plants  that  you  wish 
for  early  flowering  remove  to  the  forcing  house. 

October. 

Your  plants  should  be  all  housed.  Give  them  water  at 
the  roots  only  when  dry.  Those  that  are  in  the  forcing 
house  syringe  twice  a  day.  Give  plenty  of  air  in  fine 


104  AZALEA.    CULTURE. 

weather,  it  will  add  much  to  the  health  and  vigor  of  your 
plants. 

The  seeds  which  were  ripe  and  gathered  last  month 
should  now  be  sown  in  pans  or  boxes,  as  has  been  directed. 

November  and  December. 

Air  when  the  weather  will  permit.  Fresh  air  will  do 
more  for  your  plants  during  these  months  than  any  stimu- 
lant you  can  give  them.  Syringe  as  for  October.  Keep 
pinching  the  tops  off  the  young  plants  which  were  rooted 
last  spring.  Look  over  your  young  grafts,  and  keep  the 
suckers  down.  Syringe  with  lime  water. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

AZALEA    CATALOGUE. 

I  have  named  in  a  previous  chapter  twenty  (20)  distinct 
single  Azaleas,  also  ten  (10)  double.  I  will  now  give  a  full 
list,  as  is  published  in  many  catalogues.  About  one  third 
of  them  I  consider  distinct  and  worth  growing,  the  balance 
are  good,  but  too  much  alike  when  in  flower  to  be  classed 
as  distinct  kinds. 

Alba,  white,  the  best  for  early  flowering. 

Admiration,  white,  striped. 

Adelina,  red,  semi-double. 

Alba,  Illustrious  Plena,  white,  double. 

Alba  Multiflora,  white,  blotched  and  striped. 

Alba  Plena,  white,  double. 

Alba  Striata,  white,  striped. 

Alexander,  white,  striped,  edges  fringed. 

Alice,  rose,  blotched,  vermillion,  double. 

Amoena,  rosy  purple,  double,  hardy . 

Amcena  Grandiflora,  rosy  purple,  large  flowered. 

Amoena  Hybrida,  rosy  pink. 

Andersonii,  rich  rosy  carmine. 

Apollo,  deep  scarlet. 

Ardens,  bright  orange  scarlet. 

Armide,  white. 

Arelia,  white  and  purple. 

Arborea  Purpurea,  large,  purple,  double. 

Athenerman,  bright  rosy  pink. 

5*  105 


106  AZALEA   CULTURE. 

Auguste  Van  Geert,  semi -double,  color  satiny  rose. 

Auguste  Delfosse,  dark  orange,  shaded  buff. 

Baron  de  Pret,  rosy  lilac. 

Baron  de  Vriere,  salmon  rose,  large  flowered. 

Baron  Ed  Osy,  bright  orange. 

Baron  Hruby,  lilac,  tinted  with  white. 

Beauty  of  Reigate,  white,  spotted  rose. 

Beauty  of  Europe,  pink,  striped  carmine. 

Bernhard  Andre,  Alba,  white  double. 

Belle  Grantoise,  rosy  salmon. 

Bijou  de  Paris,  white,  striped  carmine. 

Bouquet  de  Roses,  clear  rose,  double. 

Borsig,  white,  double,  one  of  the  best. 

Bride,  large,  Waxy  white. 

Brookleyana,  white,  striped. 

Carl  Petzold,  dark  carmine. 

Charmer,  bright  carmine. 

Charles  Enke,  rose,  edged  with  white. 

Charles  Van  Eckhaute,  orange  spotted,  crimped  edges. 

Columbia,  white,  striped  violet. 

Coloris  Nova,  dark  carmine. 

Comet,  salmon  scarlet. 

Countess  de  Flanders,  bright  rose,  large  flowered. 

Criterion,  rose,  edged  white. 

Crimeria,  rich  crimson. 

Dame  Melanie,  bright  rose,  edge  white. 

Dante,  bright  red. 

Danielsiana,  orange  red. 

Dieudonne  Spae,  clear  rose. 

Dr.  Augustin,  large,  deep  red. 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  107 

Dr.  Lindley,  orange,  maroon  blotches. 

Dr.  Livingstone,  deep  rose. 

Duke  of  Wellington,  bright  scarlet. 

Due  de  Malakoff,  bright  rose,  double. 

Due  de  Nassau,  rich  crimson. 

Eclipse,  bright  crimson. 

Egregia,  plum  color. 

Emperor,  orange  scarlet. 

Etna,  brilliant  crimson. 

Eloile  de  Gand,  salmon,  white  margin. 

Eugenie  Mazel,  rosy  lilac. 

Eulalie  Van  Ghert,  pink  and  blush,  spotted. 

Eulalie  Van  Ghert,  Variegata,  foliage  variegated,  flowers 

pink  and  blush. 
Extraneii,  violet  rose. 
Fascination,  rosy  pink,  edged  white. 
Fielder's  White,  white,  large  flower. 
Flag  of  Truce,  white,  large  and  double. 
Formosa,  deep  red. 
Francois  de  Vos,  scarlet  double. 

Frederick  Schleiermacher,  bright  pink,  with  metalic  tint. 
Frederick  der  Grosse,  dark  rose,  shaded  purple. 
Frostii,  violet  pink. 
Franklin,  white,  striped  crimson. 
Frau  Cassian,  white,  spotted  and  striped. 
Gledstanesia,  white,  striped. 
Glory  of  Arras,  bright  rose,  white  margin. 
Glory  of  Belgium,  white,  striped  and  spotted. 
Glory  of  Sunninghill,  salmon  double. 
Grossfurstin  Helene,  salmon,  with  rich  dark  spots. 


108  AZALEA    CULTURE. 

Grata,  rich  vermillion. 

Hermann  Seidel,  bright  rose,  double. 

Hcrmine,  white,  carmine  stripes,  double. 

Hercules,  dark  red. 

Her  Majesty,  rosy  lilac,  edged  white. 

Henrich  Liesmeyer,  brilliant  orange,  scarlet. 

Hortense  Vervaene,  pale  flesh,  marked  with  white  and  sal- 
mon. 

Illustrious,  orange  scarlet. 

Imbricata,  white,  spotted  rose,  double. 

Imperial,  red. 

Imperatrice  Josephine,  purplish  rose. 

Indica  Alba,  single,  white. 

Iveryana,  white,  striped  rose. 

Jean  Van  Geert,  bright  glossy  rose. 

Jean  Verschaffelt,  deep  orange,  shaded. 

Konigen  Louis  Von  Preussen,  rosy  red. 

Lateritia,  salmon,  habit  very  dwarf. 

Lateritia  Alba,  white 

La  Victoria,  deep  orange,  blotched. 

Leava,  white. 

Leuco  Majestica,  white. 

Lovely,  white,  striped  purple. 

Louis  Napoleon,  rosy  purple. 

Louis  Margottin,  greenish  white,  striped  with  crimson. 

Madam  Amber  Verschaffelt,  white,  striped. 

Madam  Alex.  Langenhone,  variegated,  white,  speckled  rose. 

Madam  Camille  Van  Langenhone,  snow  white,  striped 
crimson. 

Madam  Dom  Vervaene,  rose,  striped  lilac. 


AZALEA    CULTURE.  109 

Madam  Michael,  white,  striped  purple. 

Madam  Miellez,  large,  white,  lilac  stripe. 

Madam  Gus  Lefebvre,  dark  orange,  double. 

Madam  VerschafFelt,  violet,  rose-shaded  white. 

Marquis  of  Lome,  beautiful  orange. 

Magniflora,  salmon,  white  margin. 

Maitlandii,  white,  striped  and  spotted. 

Magnet,  rosy  salmon. 

Minerva,  rich  orange  scarlet. 

Mile.  Maria  Van  Houtte,  striped,  double. 

Mr.  Fry,  bright  carmine. 

Narcissiflora,  white,  double. 

Napoleon  III,  deep  orange. 

Ne  Plus  Ultra,  orange  scarlet. 

Neptune,  orange,  shaded  violet. 

Nonpariel,  white,  ribboned  rose. 

Optima,  orange  scarlet. 

Ovata,  light  lilac. 

Pauline  Mardeur,  bright  rose,  double. 

Perfection,  bright  rose,  spotted. 

Phoenicia,  large,  purple. 

President  Clayes,  dark  salmon,  margined  white. 

President  Victor  Van  den  Hecke,  white,  mottled  and  striped 

rose. 

Prince  Alex.  Von  Hessen,  salmon,  shaded  white. 
Princesse  Alexandre,  white,  striped  crimson. 
Princesse  Charlotte,  deep  rose,  red  blotched. 
Professor  Koch,  deep  pink,  double. 
Pride  of  Dorking,  vivid  crimson. 
Punctulata,  creamy  white,  spotted  and  striped. 


no 


AZALEA    CULTURE. 


Queen  Victoria,  white,  purple  striped. 

Rachael  Von  Varnhagan,  rosy  purple. 

Reine  des  Beauties,  salmon  rose,  semi-double. 

Reine  des  Pays  Bas,  striped,  crimson. 

Reine  des  Beiges,  rosy  pink. 

Roi  Leopold,  rich  salmon. 

Roi  des  Beauties,  fine  rose,  white  margin. 

Rubra  Plena,  red,  double. 

Rubens,  bright  orange  scarlet. 

Semi-duplex  Maculata,  rose,  semi-double. 

Sigismund  Rucker,  lilac  rqse,  margined  white. 

Souvenir  de  1'Exposition,  delicate  pink,  white  margin. 

Souvenir  de  Prince  Albert,  white  and  rose,  semi-double. 

Stanley  ana,  rose-shaded  carmine. 

Stella,  pale  orange. 

Superba,  bright  red. 

Tannhauser,  deep  red. 

Theresia,  orange,  blotched. 

Theodore  Prussen,  deep  rose,  shaded  violet. 

Toilete  de  Flore,  white,  striped. 

Triomphe  de  Mainz,  rosy  scarlet. 

Triomphe  de  Gand,  clear  salmon. 

Variegata,  rose,  margined  white,  dwarf  habit. 

Vesta,  white. 

Vesuvius,  large,  pale  orange. 

Vittata  Punctuatta,  white,  striped. 

Vittata  Fortunii,  white,  striped  purple. 

Vittata  Rosea,  rose  colored. 

Van  Hartwig,  light  red. 

William  Bull,  large,  rose,  semi-double. 

Wilhelm  Tell,  carmine,  striped. 


Camellia  Culture 


CAMELLIA  &&POVICJL. 


ILLUSTRATED  WITH  FIVE  COLORED 

PLATES  AMD  FORTY-FOUR 

WOOD  ENGRAVINGS. 

A  guide  to   the   Successful  Propagation   and  culture  of  the 
Camellia,  by 


BALTIMORE,  MD. 

ALL  I  KNOW  ABOUT  GROWING  THIS  PLANT,  IN 
BOOK  FORM:  OF  140  PAGES,  SENT  POST-PAID, 

BY  MAIL. 


PRICE, 


$2.OO. 

ill 


CONTENTS  OF  CAMELLIA  CULTURE. 


CHAPTER  I.—  Why  I  do  not  grow  single 
stocks. 

The  best  white  Camellias,  and  how 
they  are  grown  by  many  florists. 

CHAPTER  II.—  Disadvantage  of  the  old 
method  of  growing  Alba  Plena  and 
all  double  varieties,  and  superior 
profitableness  of  the  new. 

CHAPTER  III.—  The  wholesale  and 
retail  prices  of  the  single  red 
Camellias,  also  of  the  Alba  Plena, 
grown  Irom  cuttings,  one,  two  and 
three  years  old. 

CHAPTER  IV.—  flow  to  propagate  Alba 
Plena  Camellias. 

What  is  needed  for  the  cutting  bed. 
Kind  of  sand  to  use. 
Engraving  showing  five  thousand 
Alba  Plena  cuttings,  five  eyes  long. 
Engraving  of  box  of  cuttings,  two 
eyes  long. 

Time  to  take  cuttings  from  the  plant. 
Cuttings  from  young  wood. 

CHAPTER  V.  —  Length  and  size  of  cut- 
tings. Engraving  showing  cutting 
five  eyes  long.  The  best  cutting  for 
Amateurs  and  those  of  limited  expe- 
rience to  adopt. 

CHAPTER  VI  —  Engraving  showing 
kind  of  cutting  for  the  single  stock, 
or  the  double  red  varieties.  Advan- 
tages of  long  cuttings.  Number  of 
cuttings  you  will  get  from  a  moder- 
ate sized  plant 

CHAPTER  VII.—  The  kind  of  wood  to 
use.  How  to  prepare  the  sand-bed. 
Engraving  showing  two  hundred 
cuttings,  one  eye  long.  Directions 
for  watering  the  sand-bed,  &c. 

CHAPTER  VIII—  Time  to  put  cuttings 
in  the  sand-bed.  Quantity  of  heat 
required.  The  amount  of  knowledge 
requisite  to  grow  them.  Cleanliness 
of  bed,  etc. 


CHAPTER  IX.  —  How  long  to  leave  cut- 
tings in  the  sand.  Length  of  time  in 
rooting.  I  do  not  allow  cuttings  to 
make  but  one  growth.  Engraving  of 
Alba  Plena  eigot  months  in  sand-bed. 
The  size  of  pot  required  for  cuttings. 
Treatment  after  being  taken  from  the 
sand-bed. 

CHAPTER  X.  —  Engraving  of  Alba  Plena 
well  rooted,  but  without  eyes  or 
shoots.  How  to  care  for  them  and 
have  them  form  new  eyes. 


CHAPTER  XI. — Engraving  showing  Al- 
ba Piena  cutting  when  potted  in  June, 
all  eyes  dead.  April  following  mak- 
ing one  shoot. 

CHAPTER  XII. — Engraving  of  Alba 
Plena  cutting  of  two  eyes.  Eight 
months  in  the  sand-bed.  Newly 
potted  June  the  first 

CHAPTER  XIII.— Engraving  of  Alba 
Plena  cuttings  five  eyes,  One  year  old 
in  a  pot.  How  to  care  for  them. 
When  to  re-pot. 

CHAPTER  XIV. — Engraving  showing 
Alba  Pl?na  two  years  old,  from  a 
cutting  of  two  eyes  with  one  bud. 

CHAPTKR  XV. — Engraving  showing 
Alba  Plena  two  years  old,  from  a  five 
eye  cutting,  without  flower  buds. 

CHAPTER  XVI. — Engraving  of  Alba 
Plena  three  years  old,  from  a  cutting. 
Also  engraving  showing  the  same 
plant  cut  back  to  form  a  pushy  plant 
for  the  fourth  season.  Directions  for 
treating  the  same. 

CHAPTER  XVII.— Engraving  showing 
double  red,  three  years  old.  How 
many  of  the  red  varieties  to  grow  in 
proportion  to  the  white.  When  1  re- 
sort to  grafting. 

CHAPTER  XVIII. — Engraving  showing 
Alba  Plena,  four  years  old,  from  cut- 
ting of  five  eyes.  Present  price  of 
this  size. 

CHAPTER  XIX.— Alba  Plena  planted 
out  in  greenhouse.  Engraving  of 
my  double-pitch  Camellia  house,  one 
hundred  feet  long  by  thirty- two  feet 
wide.  Engraving  of  my  lean-to 
house,  seventy-five  feet  long  by  six- 
teen feet  wide.  The  way  to  grow 
Camellia  flowers  for  profit. 

CHAPTER  XX. — Plants  in  pots  and  tubs. 
When  they  require  re-potting,  top 
dressing,  etc. 

CHAPTER  XXI. — How  to  water  plants. 
The  quantity  of  water  required. 
Three  important  matters  in  growing 
Camellias.  How  to  have  fine  flow- 
ers. 

CHAPTER  XXII.— Time  to  re-pot  large 
Camellias. 

112 


CHAPTER  XXIII.— The  remedy  for 
Alba  Plena  flowers  when  they  open 
a  yellowish  color.  Putting  plants 
outside  in  summer.  The  kind  of  a 
day  that  Camellias  should  be  put  out 
iu  the  open  air. 

CHAPTER  XX IV. —Will  Camellias  stand 
forcing  ?  Proper  time  lor  them  to 
flower.  Proper  treatment.  The  num- 
ber of  flowers  I  cut  from  the  i^th  of 
December  to  the  middle  of  January. 
Treatment  while  growing,  pruning, 
etc. 

CHAPTER  XXV.— On  Camellia  Can- 
didissima.  Engraving  showing  the 
flowering  variety. 

CHAPTER  XXVI.— On  the  worthless 
kind  of  Candidissima.  Engraving 
showing  the  variety  that  never 
blooms. 

CHAPTER  XXVIT.— Design  of  house  for 
amateurs.  The  cost  of  erecting  it. 
How  to  grow  Camellias  with  other 
plants.  How  to  treat  them  during 
the  summer  months. 

CHAPTER  XX VIII.— On  grafting.  Five 
engravings  showing  single  stock. 
Single  stock  grafted.  The  best  mode 
of  grafting.  The  frame  to  receive 
the  grafts.  Grafted  plant  one  year 
old.  Grafted  plant  two  years  old. 

CHAPTER  XXIX.— On  grafting  for  Am- 
ateurs, or  fur  those  who  have  a  small 
collection  of  Camellias.  Engraving 
showing  how  single  plants  can  be 
grafted  successfully  with  compara- 
tively little  labor. 

CHAPTER  XXX.— On  inarching. 
Five  engravings  showing  how  in- 
arching is  done.  Engraving  of  a  six- 
year-old  inarched  plant.  Engraving 
of  a  four-year-old  Alba  Plena,  grown 
from  a  cutting. 

CHAPTER  XXXI.— On  Camellia  Japon- 
ica  for  window  gardening,  also  for 
Hay  windows  and  small  conservator- 
ies. 

CHAPTER  XXXII.— Soil  for  Camellias. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII.— Names  of  Camel- 
lias that  I  grow  for  profit.  The  four 
best  white  varieties. 

CHAPTER  XXXIV.— Eighteen  of  the 
best  colored  varieties;  six  double 
red,  six  double  rose  color,  six  double 
striped. 

CHAPTER  XXXV.— How  to  box  and 
ship  Camellias.  The  current  prices 
for  them.  By  whom  tiiey  are  princi- 
pally bought. 

CHAPTER  XXXVI.— How  long  Camel- 
lias will  keep  after  being  cut  from 
the  bush. 

CHAPTER  XXXVII— Fertilizers.  What 
to  use. 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII.— On  insects  and 
pests  to  which  Camellias  are  subject. 

f  Red  spider,  mealy  bug,  scale,  etc. 
Wash  for  the  pipes,  etc. 

CHAPTER  XXXIX.— On  heating. 
CHAPTER  XL. — Syringing. 

CHAPTER  XL  I. —Ventilating  the  Ca- 
mellia houses. 

CHAPTER  XLIL— On  shading.  To  pre- 
vent the  foliage  fr  Jin  burning. 

CHAPTER  X LI II.— On  packing  plants. 

CHAPTER  XLIV. — On  pruning  large 
plants. 

CHAPTER  XLV.— The  great  necessity 
for  usi  'g  only  the  healthiest  plants 
for  cuttings,  grafting  and  inarching. 
No  improvement  to  be  reached  by 
forcing  the  plants. 

CHAPTER  XLVI. — Calendar  for  months. 
CHAPTER  XL VII. — Camellia  catalogue. 

COLORED  PLATES, 

CAMELLIA  JAPONICA.— 
Single  Red. 

Alba  Plena.— Double  White, 
linbricata. — Crimson  and  White. 
Sarah.  Frost — Rosy  Crimson. 


113 


BOOKS  ON  FLORICULTURE. 


I  have  frequent  inquiries  as  to  which  are  the  best  books 
for  beginners,  and  those  who  are  seeking  general  informa- 
tion as  regards  Floriculture,  &c. 

I  have  read  the  following  works,  and  have  found  they 
contain  more  practical  knowledge  and  information  than  any 
other  books  that  have  yet  been  issued  from  the  American 
press. 

GAEDENING  FOR  PROFIT. 
A  guide  to  the  successful  cultivation  of  the  market  and 

family  garden. 
BY  PETER  HENDERSON. 


GARDENING  FOR  PLEASURE. 

A  guide  to  the  amateur  in  the  fruit,  vegetable,  and  flower 

garden,  with  full  directions  for  the  greenhouse, 

conservatory,  and  window  garden. 

BY  PETER  HENDERSON. 


PRACTICAL  FLORICULTURE. 

A  guide  to  the  successful  cultivation  of  the  florist's  plants. 

For  the  amateur  and  professional  florist. 

BY  PETER  HENDERSON. 


Price  of  each  book,  post-paid,  $1 .50,  and  can  be  had  of  any 
seedsman. 

114 


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